Morning – Lens-Artists Photo Challenge

Morning on the Bosque

Morning is the challenge Ann-Christine of To See a World In a Grain of Sand has offered us this week; either what our mornings are looking like now or a special morning we won’t forget.

I’m not a morning person. I have often said that I am actually, truly, allergic to morning. Getting up early can be painful for me. In my home in Alaska, sunrise can be anywhere from 2AM to 10AM, depending on the season, so waking at the crack of dawn to watch the sun rise has never been one of my morning rituals.

Mendocino County morning
Morning in the redwoods

I tend to get up and hit the computer first thing, business first, and focus on the fun later in the day.  And my current mornings, sorry, are frankly not worth writing about. But there have been times when getting up early has rewarded me with priceless treasures and magical experiences.

As I look over the last 6 months or so, I remember a lot of very special mornings. Watching the sun rise over the desert. Seeing the mists dance through the redwood forest. Photographing early morning light on a Pacific Coast lighthouse.

California coast
Point Cabrillo Lighthouse

But the mornings that stand out most in my memory are the ones spent in Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Preserve this past winter.

The Bosque is a birder’s paradise. I play at being a birder sometimes. But if I was a real birder, I’d get up early in the morning! Well, for the Bosque I made an exception and did just that.

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Sunrise/moonset on the Bosque

Watching the sun rise and the snow geese take off from the ponds on the Bosque is quite an experience. It’s a ritual, like watching the sunset in Key West. It takes dedication. Not only do you have to get up at the crack of dawn, it is freakin’ COLD out there!!

You need patience. Sometimes it seems like not much is happening, and it gets colder and colder because you are standing still. But wait for it.

Morning in Bosque del Apache
Sandhill Cranes and Snow Geese

There will likely be a few geese already in the ponds when you arrive. The cranes have spent the night there, roosting in the shallow water as protection against predators like the coyote.

Then you hear it. A cacophony of honking, braying geese. You might see them in the distance as they fly from one pond to another. Or you might be suddenly overwhelmed, as hundreds of birds appear from seemingly nowhere, surrounding you as they join their kin in the waters before you. The din is terrific. One flock after another arrives.

Morning on Bosque del Apache
Northern Shoveler

A flush of pink begins to fill the sky. Although the cranes and snow geese are the stars of the show, you may begin to notice other birds – ducks, Shovelers and Pintails, swimming around in the foreground, and perhaps a gaggle of Canadian Geese behind those cranes.

If you look closer at the vast flocks of Snow Geese, you begin to discern a few differences. That one is much smaller – it must be a Ross’ Goose. See the dark one over there? It’s a White-Fronted Goose. The sun rises behind you, lighting up the sky. But it hasn’t reached the ponds yet. They are still in deep shade.

Snow Geese
Sunrise salutation

With the additional light, the cranes begin to get restless.  They start walking, in groups. In shallow, frozen places, they slip and slide with a graceful gait. You might notice a group – peering, watching, intent, looking for a signal perhaps. They begin to take off randomly, two or three at a time. I found it hard to anticipate – which cranes will take flight next? But most of the birds are not ready to leave just yet.

They’re waiting for the sun. When the sunlight reaches the birds, they know it’s time to move to the fields for the day. On some mornings birds continue to leave in small groups, a crane here, a crane there, a dozen geese at a time.

Morning on Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Snow Geese

But other mornings are magic. If you’re lucky, you may see one of those rare spectacles of nature that people travel thousands of miles to observe, that National Geographic moment.

The anticipation builds. The constant background chatter of thousands of squabbling geese crescendoes. Then every goose on the pond takes off at once, exploding into the air. This is a sight you will remember forever.

Snow Geese flying
Explosion of birds

 

Rivers of the Wrangells

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

Amy of The World is a Book chose “A River Runs Through It” as this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, so I thought I would showcase the Copper River and its tributaries, rivers running through the Wrangell Mountains. I live deep in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I’m surrounded by rivers. I cross 2 rivers just to get home when I reach the end of the McCarthy Road!

Not all of these rivers are called rivers. In Alaska, some rivers are only creeks, and many creeks are big enough that they should be considered rivers. McCarthy Creek is definitely one of these.

Rivers of the Wrangells
Kayakers on McCarthy Creek

McCarthy Creek runs into the Kennicott River, the river that separates McCarthy and Kennicott from the rest of the road system in Alaska.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
The only way for visitors to visit Kennicott and McCarthy is to cross a footbridge over the Kennicott River.

If you drive the McCarthy Road, one of the rivers you cross is the Gilahina. The Gilahina is a bit unusual for this region because it is not a glacial stream but a clear stream, created by snowmelt instead of glacier melt. It is also one of those rivers that might more accurately be called a creek.

McCarthy Road
Old Railway Trestle from the Copper River Northwestern Railway over the Gilahina River

Most rivers in the Wrangells are glacial streams. Glacial streams carry heavy loads of debris and silt that block the flow of the water, constantly changing its course. River beds are very wide to accommodate these changes, creating a pattern called braided streams.

Rivers of the Wrangells
The Nizina is a good example of a braided glacial river.

Wonder why so many Alaskan rivers end in na? Na means river in Athabaskan!  All these streams I’ve mentioned flow into the Chitina River.  Chitina means “Copper River” in the language of the Ahtna people, an Athabaskan tribe. The Chitina River is THE major tributary of the Copper River. It carries much more water than the main branch of the river. This is because it drains the southern slope of the Wrangells and the northern slopes of the Chugach Mountains within the park. The northern slopes of the Wrangells, the watershed of the Copper above the confluence, are in the rainshadow and do not receive as much precipitation.

Rivers of the Wrangells
The Chitina River

The Chitina joins the Copper River at the town of Chitina. The Copper River is one of the world’s most important wild rivers, running nearly its entire length through a vast wilderness. It’s the tenth-largest river in North America. It carries one of the greatest silt loads of any river in the world.

All that silt has built the Copper River delta at the mouth of the river, the largest contiguous wetland on the entire Pacific Coast. This area is vitally important to birds. It’s an important stop on the Pacific Flyway, one of the continent’s main migration routes. The entire world population of western sandpipers and dunlins stop here on their northern migration. The delta also harbors the world’s largest population of Trumpeter Swans.

The Copper River is also home to the best salmon in the world, Copper River Reds.

Rivers of the Wrangells
The upper Copper River and Mt. Sanford

The rivers of the Wrangells are all frozen now, but breakup will be here before we know it. Cheers to the mighty Copper River and all its tributaries!

 

Reflections

Behind the Rocks

For this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, I’ll showcase a few reflections of places I love.

I love the way the clouds are reflected in the wet sand at low tide on the Long Beach Peninsula in Washington.

Reflections
Long Beach Peninsula, Washington

The Colorado River near Moab, Utah, is one of my favorite places to catch those mirror images.

Potash Road
The Colorado River from the Potash Road near Moab

On my last visit to Rocky Mountain National Park, I caught this buck thinking about crossing the road through my side rear view mirror.

Rocky Mountain National Park
Typical national park megafauna traffic jam

Bird reflections are always a favorite. I caught this one at Moss Landing Beach in California.

Watchable wildlife
Snowy Egret fishing

Rear view mirrors aren’t the only place I might see my surroundings reflected on my little truck.

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge
The view from my campsite at Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, Arizona

A post of my favorite places wouldn’t be complete without something closer to home.

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
Reflections along the McCarthy Road

I recently left a wonderful stay on the Mendocino Coast,

Mendocino magic
Seaside Beach

and now I’m road-tripping, Mendo to the Mojave. Today I’ll be in Death Valley. It rained hard last night. Maybe I’ll see a scene like this…

Death Valley National Park
Badwater Reflections

 

2019 Photography Destinations – A Baker’s Dozen of My Personal Favorites Part 2

Favorite 2019 Photography Destinations

The countdown continues. A few days ago I posted spots 13 through 7 of my favorite 2019 photography destinations.  This week, I list the best ones of all, the destinations that rated 1 through 6 of my personal best.

6) Joshua Tree National Park

Superbloom. Joshua Tree had one this past spring. Need I say more? This coming spring should be fairly good, too. It’s been raining and snowing with more rain and snow in the forecast. Even if the flowers aren’t as spectacular as they were last spring, Joshua Tree is still a great place to visit. It is also home to some very cool rocks. One of these days I plan to spend more time in the rocks – when I’m not so distracted by the flowers.Lupines, Joshua Tree National Park

5) Anza Borrego State Park

Anza Borrego also had an excellent wildflower season. It was definitely one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations, as I got to visit not once, not twice, but three times! I saw different plants blooming each time. I even saw my favorite campsite in the park in bloom, something I’ve never been lucky enough to catch before.

Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA

4) Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

It’s all about the birds. And the peace. And the serenity.

Each winter vast numbers of sandhill cranes and snow geese descend upon the refuge for the winter. There are lots of other birds and wildlife, too.

It’s a great place to polish your craft. It has become one of my new favorite places.

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Northern Pintail

3) San Simeon

Since I had a couple of different housesits on the central California Coast,  Piedras Blancas and San Simeon became one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations. I spent a lot of time camping at San Simeon; before, in between and after my housesits.

Down on the beach right below the campground, there is a bird sanctuary. I took advantage of the wonderful opportunities for checking out the shorebirds there. And then there’s Cambria, just a few miles south. I love that little town, and I especially love Moonstone Beach, with all the pretty pebbles.

I’d been to San Simeon before and loved it, but never at the prime time for the elephant seal action. January and February are when the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, just a few miles up the coast, are birthing, fighting, and mating.  It’s a true wildlife extravaganza!

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

2) Carrizo Plains National Monument

This is definitely one of my new favorite places. Most of the year you’d never give it a second glance. But when the flowers bloom in the springtime, this land is amazing. Possibly the best wildflower display I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something. The most incredible thing, though, is the fragrance. In some places, the blend of different floral scents is pure nirvana. Take lots of deep breaths. The huge swaths of color, whole hillsides dyed pink, purple or yellow from acres upon acres of blooms can be pretty dang impressive, too.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Owl’s Clover & Goldfields

1) Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

There’s no place like home. Especially when your home is possibly the most spectacular place in North America! When I look at the view I get right from my front porch, it’s a wonder I ever leave the place!

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
This is my commute!

I hope you enjoyed checking out my favorite photographic destinations for 2019. 2020 will bring a host of new experiences. Some of my favorites will remain the same, but I’m sure I’ll find a treasure trove of new favorites, too. Where do you plan to go in 2020? Let me know in the comments.

2019 Photography Destinations – A Baker’s Dozen Part 1

Tucson, AZ

As I look back over 2019, I feel fortunate. I had some incredible opportunities to spend time in a few of our country’s most amazing photography destinations. Some were popular places, in danger of being loved to death. Others were just as special, but not as well known, the kinds of places that creep up on you and get under your skin. Forever.

I thought I’d make a Top Ten list, it being close to the New Year and all. But I found  I couldn’t narrow it down to just ten places. So I came up with a baker’s dozen. Then my post was too long. So I broke it into parts 1 and 2,  the Rambling Ranger’s favorite photography destinations of 2019. Here is Part 1.

13) Elkhorn Slough / Moss Landing

This spot is one of those best-kept secrets. It’s a location that skates by under the radar on a coastline filled with destinations that are a bit TOO popular (Big Sur, Point Lobos, Monterey). Although Elkhorn Slough doesn’t have the flashy scenery of those more fashionable destinations, the wildlife watching here is fabulous. Look for a plethora of shorebirds. The main draw, however, is the sea otters. This just may be the best place on the Pacific coast to observe those cute little critters.

Moss Landing State Beach, California
Sea Otter Waving

12) Death Valley National Park

I spent most of March in Death Valley. I had committed myself months earlier to leading a few hikes there,  before I could predict where the best desert wildflowers would be. The flowers were very late in Death Valley, with only a few blooming in March. It drove me a little crazy to be stuck there, as I knew that both Anza-Borrego and Joshua Tree were experiencing exceptional blooms.

But the great thing about Death Valley is that it is an amazing photography destination even if there are no flowers blooming. The austere beauty and diversity of landscapes offer endless opportunities for inspiration and creativity. I saw a few new places and revisited a lot of old favorites, too.

Mesquite Sand Dunes
Death Valley National Park

11) Southern Colorado Rockies

I had a short housesit in Durango over Thanksgiving this year. It’s always a blessing to spend time in southern Colorado. I love that edge environment, where the mountains meet the desert, giving you the best of both worlds. From the Great Sand Dunes to the many hot springs, from the jagged ragged peaks of the Rockies to the mesas and canyons of the Colorado Plateau, there were so many choices, all within a day’s drive of my base in Durango. The southern Colorado Rockies are another place I find myself returning to, again and again.

Million Dollar Highway
Durango is beautiful.

10) Denali Highway

This is one of my favorite places to see the fall colors in Alaska. And Alaska often has some OUTRAGEOUS fall colors! The blueberries are pretty incredible on the Denali Highway, too! Late August to early September is the time frame to aim for if you want to see the tundra put on its fancy dancin’ clothes. Special bonus: You might get lucky and see that visual symphony, the Aurora, too!

The Denali Highway is a great fall photography destination
Fall colors along the Denali Highway

9) Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky has a special place in my heart because I lived in both Estes Park and Grand Lake long ago in my younger days. I was fortunate to land a housesit in Allenspark, at the southwest corner of Rocky Mountain National Park, in October. It was a blast from the past, revisiting the environment that first instilled in me my deep love of the mountains.

Rocky is one of the best places in the country to catch the elk rut. It is also home to superb alpine scenery, wonderful hikes, and brilliant aspens.  One thing to keep in mind – like Arches and Zion, this park is in the process of being loved to death. Be aware of your impact. Choose the trail less traveled. Give the animals their space and leave no trace so that we can all continue to enjoy Rocky for generations to come.

Colorado Rockies
My old stomping grounds

8) Point Pinos

Storm watching. Big waves. That’s why Point Pinos, in Pacific Grove, California, made my list. This is the first place I’ve ever been at all successful at capturing the essence of the power of the ocean. The surf here is awesome, in the original sense of that word.

Pacific Grove was also a place of great sadness for me, where I witnessed the crash of ecosystems, both terrestrial and maritime. The near-extinction of the Monarch Butterfly and the exponential effects of sea star wasting and a warming ocean were only too apparent during my stay here. Although it was heartbreaking, I felt it was important to be a witness.

Big wave, Point Pinos, Monterey Coast, CA
Point Pinos is a great place to watch the big waves.

7) Tucson, Arizona

There’s a reason why Arizona sunsets are famous. I swear they’re the most lurid sunsets I’ve ever seen! I love the cacti, too, stately saguaro and crazy cholla. I spent a few weeks in Tucson on a housesit last February and was surprised at how much I liked it since I’m not much of a city girl.  But national and state parks abound, as well as other great open spaces.

Colorful sunsets make Saguaro National Park an excellent photography destination.
Crazy cholla

These were just a few of my favorite photo destinations for 2019. I’ll let you in on the rest by New Year’s Eve. What were some of yours? Let me know in the comments!

 

 

Bosque del Apache is Bird Nerd Heaven

Snow Geese

I recently had the great good fortune to visit Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in New Mexico. It’s a special place.

The refuge is an incredible winter destination for those of you who are fellow nature addicts. The Bosque is bird nerd heaven.

Bosque del Apache
Lots of birds at Bosque del Apache

You’ve probably seen the pictures. Thousands of snow geese and sandhill cranes, that’s what the Bosque is famous for.

And for good reason. The cranes are everywhere – in the marshes, in the fields, flying overhead.

Sandhill Crane
Cranes are everywhere

The snow geese are a little more elusive.  My first day in I didn’t see any at all. But when you do find them, you find a lot! Thousands. The snow geese travel in huge flocks of hundreds, even thousands, of birds as they move from pond to pond.

When I was there, the geese were spending most of their time on the other side of the river, where they didn’t have to deal with tourists like me.

Snow Geese
Snow Geese

The Entrance Pond

But there is one time and place where you are very likely to find them. No guarantees. (I did get completely skunked by the geese my first day.) There is a long, shallow. marshy pond located shortly after you cross into the refuge on Old Highway 1. Flocks of geese show up just before sunrise and take off soon after the light hits the water.

You’ll find the cranes, there, too. After all, the cranes are everywhere. The shallow pond is a great roost for them at night. It’s deep enough to keep the coyotes at bay but shallow enough to sleep in.

Bosque del Apache
Crane taking off

It’s a tradition for the bird nerds who frequent the Bosque. It’s kind of like watching the sunset in Key West, a crowd gathering to applaud an everyday natural phenomenon.

Lines of photographers gather along the berm next to the pond, like combat fisherman in Alaska, tripod to tripod. Instead of salmon, they’re trying to catch that perfect shot, waiting for that sometime moment when all the geese take off at once. It doesn’t always happen, but when it does…

Photographing Bosque del Apache
Bird Nerds

These are die-hard nature photographers. I was part of the maybe 3% who DIDN”T have a lense as long as your leg.

Most of these folks come from a different tax bracket than I do. I overheard a conversation -“Well, I didn’t get the upgrade to the balcony room for the Antarctica trip because they wanted another 25,000 and I thought that was a little steep.” Uh-huh. No wonder she has that big long lense and I don’t.

As a photographer, I found it a great place to practice, and learn the art of nature photography. Low light and lots of movement are difficult taskmasters, teaching new skills in the art of capturing the essential moment. Practice, practice. I could see my photos improve with every day I had to learn here.

Northern Pintail
Northern Pintail

Refuge Roads

If your lense isn’t long enough to get that National Geographic shot at the pond, head on up to the other refuge roads and trails. There are plenty of other birds to see here, too.

Nestled in farming country along the Rio Grande River, the Bosque provides a patchwork of different habitats. From grasslands to marshes to patches of woodland, it’s a peaceful, pastoral setting.

Red=tailed Hawk
Immature Red-Tailed Hawk

Bosque del Apache is intensively managed to recreate conditions similar to what was found along the Rio Grande before the river was dammed and tamed. Fields are flooded to create temporary marshy areas, just as if the Rio Grande had flooded its banks with summer monsoons or fast-melting snow from the mountains. These ephemeral floods create an everchanging mosaic that supports nourishing plants like chufa and millet for the birds and other wildlife to eat.

Although there are two wonderful loops you can drive and half a dozen trails, most of the 57,331-acre refuge is not easily accessible to the general public. Thirty thousand acres of Bosque del Apache are managed as wilderness.

Roadrunner
Roadrunner

Stressing out at work and need a little more peace in your life? Come here and slow down. It’s zen, a perfect spot for a bit of nature therapy. A dozen varieties of waterfowl feed in the ponds and flooded fields. Raptors perch on branches and songbirds flutter by or rustle through the grasses. There are always birds flying by. This land is so full of life!

It’s not all birds, either. You might see deer, javelina, even a bobcat. I watched a skunk trot down the road one afternoon.

Javelina
Javelina

This land has a subtle beauty. It grows on you. It’s a place you could come day after day and never tire of. It’s a place that changes with every passing day, with every passing hour, yet still remains constant. It is a place to which I know I will return again and again.

Lodging

There is no camping in the refuge. There are a couple of spots where you can camp near San Antonio, the nearest town. However, it is very cold at night, with temps in the teens, during the prime time of year for the birds at Bosque del Apache. The camping areas are a muddy mess whenever it rains, too.

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
It’s a zen kind of place.

San Antonio has limited lodging. There are a couple of Bed & Breakfasts, an RV park or two and a couple of trailer/camper options available through Airbnb. There are two restaurants in this tiny town vying for the title of “best green chile cheeseburger in New Mexico”, though, so you may want to stop for lunch one day.

Most visitors stay in Socorro. It’s a charming town, big enough to support a good coffee shop and a micro-brewery but with a decidedly working-class feel to it. Socorro has not been gentrified, not quite yet. It means getting up a little earlier in the morning, though, as it is a 20-25 minute drive from Socorro to the pond.

Bosque del Apache
It’s worth getting up early!

But it’s worth the drive. When the cackling of the geese rises from a murmur to a roar and you watch thousands of birds burst into flight instantaneously, you will experience that National Geographic moment. You, too, will hold a special place in your heart for Bosque del Apache.

Sunset at Bosque del Apache
Dusk at Bosque del Apache