2019 Photography Destinations – A Baker’s Dozen Part 1

Tucson, AZ

As I look back over 2019, I feel fortunate. I had some incredible opportunities to spend time in a few of our country’s most amazing photography destinations. Some were popular places, in danger of being loved to death. Others were just as special, but not as well known, the kinds of places that creep up on you and get under your skin. Forever.

I thought I’d make a Top Ten list, it being close to the New Year and all. But I found  I couldn’t narrow it down to just ten places. So I came up with a baker’s dozen. Then my post was too long. So I broke it into parts 1 and 2,  the Rambling Ranger’s favorite photography destinations of 2019. Here is Part 1.

13) Elkhorn Slough / Moss Landing

This spot is one of those best-kept secrets. It’s a location that skates by under the radar on a coastline filled with destinations that are a bit TOO popular (Big Sur, Point Lobos, Monterey). Although Elkhorn Slough doesn’t have the flashy scenery of those more fashionable destinations, the wildlife watching here is fabulous. Look for a plethora of shorebirds. The main draw, however, is the sea otters. This just may be the best place on the Pacific coast to observe those cute little critters.

Moss Landing State Beach, California
Sea Otter Waving

12) Death Valley National Park

I spent most of March in Death Valley. I had committed myself months earlier to leading a few hikes there,  before I could predict where the best desert wildflowers would be. The flowers were very late in Death Valley, with only a few blooming in March. It drove me a little crazy to be stuck there, as I knew that both Anza-Borrego and Joshua Tree were experiencing exceptional blooms.

But the great thing about Death Valley is that it is an amazing photography destination even if there are no flowers blooming. The austere beauty and diversity of landscapes offer endless opportunities for inspiration and creativity. I saw a few new places and revisited a lot of old favorites, too.

Mesquite Sand Dunes
Death Valley National Park

11) Southern Colorado Rockies

I had a short housesit in Durango over Thanksgiving this year. It’s always a blessing to spend time in southern Colorado. I love that edge environment, where the mountains meet the desert, giving you the best of both worlds. From the Great Sand Dunes to the many hot springs, from the jagged ragged peaks of the Rockies to the mesas and canyons of the Colorado Plateau, there were so many choices, all within a day’s drive of my base in Durango. The southern Colorado Rockies are another place I find myself returning to, again and again.

Million Dollar Highway
Durango is beautiful.

10) Denali Highway

This is one of my favorite places to see the fall colors in Alaska. And Alaska often has some OUTRAGEOUS fall colors! The blueberries are pretty incredible on the Denali Highway, too! Late August to early September is the time frame to aim for if you want to see the tundra put on its fancy dancin’ clothes. Special bonus: You might get lucky and see that visual symphony, the Aurora, too!

The Denali Highway is a great fall photography destination
Fall colors along the Denali Highway

9) Rocky Mountain National Park

Rocky has a special place in my heart because I lived in both Estes Park and Grand Lake long ago in my younger days. I was fortunate to land a housesit in Allenspark, at the southwest corner of Rocky Mountain National Park, in October. It was a blast from the past, revisiting the environment that first instilled in me my deep love of the mountains.

Rocky is one of the best places in the country to catch the elk rut. It is also home to superb alpine scenery, wonderful hikes, and brilliant aspens.  One thing to keep in mind – like Arches and Zion, this park is in the process of being loved to death. Be aware of your impact. Choose the trail less traveled. Give the animals their space and leave no trace so that we can all continue to enjoy Rocky for generations to come.

Colorado Rockies
My old stomping grounds

8) Point Pinos

Storm watching. Big waves. That’s why Point Pinos, in Pacific Grove, California, made my list. This is the first place I’ve ever been at all successful at capturing the essence of the power of the ocean. The surf here is awesome, in the original sense of that word.

Pacific Grove was also a place of great sadness for me, where I witnessed the crash of ecosystems, both terrestrial and maritime. The near-extinction of the Monarch Butterfly and the exponential effects of sea star wasting and a warming ocean were only too apparent during my stay here. Although it was heartbreaking, I felt it was important to be a witness.

Big wave, Point Pinos, Monterey Coast, CA
Point Pinos is a great place to watch the big waves.

7) Tucson, Arizona

There’s a reason why Arizona sunsets are famous. I swear they’re the most lurid sunsets I’ve ever seen! I love the cacti, too, stately saguaro and crazy cholla. I spent a few weeks in Tucson on a housesit last February and was surprised at how much I liked it since I’m not much of a city girl.  But national and state parks abound, as well as other great open spaces.

Colorful sunsets make Saguaro National Park an excellent photography destination.
Crazy cholla

These were just a few of my favorite photo destinations for 2019. I’ll let you in on the rest by New Year’s Eve. What were some of yours? Let me know in the comments!

 

 

Seeing Double – Lens-Artists Photo Challenge #69

Bandon, Oregon

For this week’s Lens-Artists Challenge, Tina asks us to focus on things that come in twos. My first inclination is to share some of my wildlife images that double the fun.

Kluane National Park, Canada
Dall Sheep on the Al-Can Highway
Piedras Blancas NWR
Elephant Seal Cows
Death Valley National Park
Burros nuzzling each other near Rhyolite, NV
Yellowstone National Park
Bison in Yellowstone
Rocky Mountain National Park
Elk in Rocky Mountain National Park

But I can’t resist adding a few desert wildflowers – because you know me, that’s what I do…

Death Valley National Park
Notch-Leaf Phacelia
Death Valley National Park
Desert Five-Spot
Joshua Tree National Park
Canterbury Bells
Joshua Tree National Park
Sand Blazing Star

I’d like to open and close this little exercise with seeing double in the landscape. No. I’m not talking about reflections – that’s a whole ‘nother post. I hope you enjoy seeing double!

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
Twin crags in the Crystalline Hills tower over the McCarthy Road, Alaska

The Elephant Seals of Piedras Blancas

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California

Not all stories about animals threatened with extinction end sadly. I’d like to share with you an animal comeback success story.

Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Family Portrait

Before the advent of kerosene, seals were hunted as ruthlessly as whales, and for the same reason. Oil. Both seal and whale oil were in great demand for lighting up people’s homes at night.

One seal in particular was prized, the elephant seal. They are really big animals. The male can weigh up to two and a half tons. Due to its great size and thick blubber, an elephant seal could render an immense quantity of oil. Northern elephant seals were hunted relentlessly, until the species was on the brink of extinction. By 1913, only 30  were left, a small herd that spent its onshore time on Guadalupe Island off the coast of Mexico.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Elephant seal bulls fight for dominance

Realizing that extinction was imminent, the Mexican government took steps to protect the last of the elephant seals. Their stringent protection measures were successful. The elephant seals survived. Over time, they even began to thrive.

As the population of elephant seals rose, they began to recolonize some of their former territories, eventually moving north to the waters off the coast of California.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

Elephant seals are amazing animals. They spend most of their lives in the deep ocean.  Superbly adapted to their life in the sea,  they spend 90% of their time there underwater. They migrate thousands of miles, swimming up to 60 miles in a day. Elephant seals can dive deeper than any other mammal, including whales. Although most of their dives are 300-600 meters, they can dive down as deep as a mile under the surface of the sea. They can even hold their breath for almost 2 hours without resurfacing.

Although the majority of their time is spent far offshore, elephant seals do need to come to land to breed, birth and molt.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
She loves all babies!

One of the places they have recently returned to is a beach just south of Piedras Blancas Point, at the southern end of the Big Sur coastline.

Elephant seals began to make Piedras Blancas home in the 1990s. At first there were only a couple of dozen seals landing there. In those early days, the local community viewed the return of elephant seals as a bit of a problem. The beach they were landing on was popular with surfers, and there was a concern about the possibility of conflict between the seals and the surfers. There was also a discussion about the seals interfering with traffic on Highway 1.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Bull elephant seal vocalizing

Sometimes they do actually make it across the highway. Not often, though. They need to be on the beach.

A management plan for the seals was debated. Education, not regulation, was key to the success of the plan. It also required a bit of a compromise. The surfers would have to sacrifice their beach for the good of the seals.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Unwanted advances

A non-profit organization, Friends of the Elephant Seals, trained docents to staff the area and educate visitors when the seals were active. A small fence was built to keep the seals off the highway and discourage people from approaching too closely.

The plan was a success. The elephant seal population increased exponentially, growing from that two dozen in the early 1990s to 17,000 in 2018.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
There are lots of little babies being born!

Piedras Blancas is now one of the biggest seal rookeries in California, hosting about 10% of the entire world population of Northern Elephant Seals.

The numbers are still increasing. Here at Piedras Blancas, about five thousand babies are born a year.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Are you my daddy?

Since their numbers are increasing, though, the beaches they already inhabit may not be enough. During the recent government shutdown, the elephant seals at Point Reyes National Seashore took over Drake’s Beach, formerly a favorite of the park’s human visitors. Like the earlier debate at Piedras Blancas, officials are not quite sure what to do about it but are leaning toward education and giving it back to the seals. Do you really want to argue with a two and a half ton bull elephant seal, and all his friends and relations?

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This dude is U-G-L-Y!

The gargantuan bull elephant seals just may  be the ugliest animals on Earth. Sometimes they look rather comical. This must be where Sesame Street’s Snuffleupagus came from. Other times, well, they’re just plain ugly. At least four, sometimes up to ten times the size of the females, these behemoths look like they belong to a completely different species.

Males fight for territory and breeding rights. Although the fighting can get ugly, usually vocalizations and posturing will cause one of the two combatants to back down.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This poor baby is about to get squashed!

Mating is often, although not always, brutal. Females usually resist, trying to move away and screaming loudly, flinging sand into the bull’s face. They are bit and clobbered and violently restrained by the males. Sometimes babies are crushed by the ardent bulls pursuing their mothers and die later from internal injuries. Imagine a human getting run over by a truck. It’s kind of like that, a hundred pound pup squashed under an oblivious two ton bull.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Get outta my face, bitch!

Hostility and aggression are not confined to the males. The females fight often among themselves, too.  As I watched one cow and her pup argue, I thought, “Is that any way to treat your poor little newborn baby?” Anthropomorphisizing, I know!  Elephant seals seem like such an ill-tempered race.  Their time on land must be incredibly stressful.

Maybe they just need a Snickers bar. During their time ashore, elephant seals neither eat nor drink. Males may stay on the beach up to 100 days.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Unbelievable!

Females will only spend 4-6 weeks at a time on land, but nursing a pup will take its toll. Mothers lose two pounds for every pound a pup gains. They will lose about a third of their body weight during their time onshore. That and they’re getting randomly raped. It’s enough to make anyone grouchy!

January and February are the best months to watch all the action at the rookery. Births, nursing, mating, fighting for dominance all happen at that time. There’s a lot going on. It’s fascinating to watch.

Seals mating, Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Seal porn

Observing the elephant seals leaves me with a couple of thoughts to ponder, that I’d like to share with you. Are we going to be OK with giving up a beach every 20 years or so to let another species thrive? Or are we too selfish to allow even that?

The other is a ray of hope. If the elephant seals can come back after being almost completely exterminated by human causes, can we bring some of today’s endangered species, like the Monarch Butterfly, back from the brink? I think we can, if we want it enough. I hope we do.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal rookery, California
Baby elephant seal nursing

 

 

San Simeon Beaches

San Simeon Beach

The first time I slept on the beach was at San Simeon.

I was 17 and had hitchhiked from Colorado to California with a friend. Traveling up the California coast one evening, we asked the young guy who gave us a ride if he knew of a good place where we could camp.

Moonstone Beach, Cambria
Even the rocks look like seals here!

He stopped the truck in the middle of nowhere. He said, “Walk through these trees to the beach. Camp there.”

The towering waves were quite impressive to a couple of mountain girls who had never walked a beach. The ocean was so LOUD! I turned to Judy and said “We’ll never get to sleep with all this noise.”

It was one of the best nights of sleep I ever had.I never forgot that night, but it was a very long time before I returned.

Bull elephant seal
What a weird looking animal!

The first time I ever saw elephant seals was on TV. It was a National Geographic show about  South Georgia Island near Antarctica.  They were fascinating.  Elephant seals can dive down as deep as a mile underwater and stay down for up to two hours. I thought they were some of the strangest, most exotic animals I had ever seen.

Immature elephant seals jousting at Piedras Blancas
Practice at asserting dominance starts at a very young age

Imagine my surprise when I found out that I didn’t have to go all the way to the southern hemisphere to see these strange animals. That I could see them in California, just a few scant miles from where I’d first experienced the ocean!

I’ve been back to the Cambria/San Simeon area a few times in the last few years. It’s my favorite place on the central California Coast. Elephant seals are just the beginning.

Moonstone Beach in Cambria, CA
Moonstone Beach

You can find treasures on the beach. Moonstone Beach is famous for its moonstones, but what I really like are the wave-polished, colorful agates. I could sift through the pebbles here for hours.

Cambria is a lovely little town. My favorite place to stay here is the Bridge Street Inn, a sweet hostel/B&B just a block and a half off Main St. The rooms are lovely, there is a good kitchen available for guests, and the hosts are kind. I highly recommend it.

If the weather’s nice, though, I’ll be camping. San Simeon Campground is just an underpass away from the most incredible birdwatching beach. There’s a (barely) offshore island there that is part of the Piedras Blancas section of the California Coastal National Monument.

Pelicans on the Central California Coast
Pelicans on the wing

Pelicans, cormorants, whimbrels, sandpipers, egrets, herons, and vultures are only a few of the birds you can see here with just a short walk.

My main draw, though, remains the elephant seals. You can see them pretty much any time of year, but the best time of year to see them is in the winter, November through February. That’s when all the action – fighting, breeding and birthing – takes place. Viewing platforms are only a few feet from the seals – and the best part  is – it’s free!

California Coastal National Monument sunset
Sunset at Piedras Blancas

Point Reyes

Baby elephant seal

Looking for a retreat from the stresses of the big city? The gentle, rounded landscape of peaceful, pastoral Point Reyes might just be the ticket.

Historic Lifeboat launching station, Point Reyes National Seashore

Point Reyes is also a great place to check out spring wildflowers. Masses of wild radish flowers border the narrow roads. California Poppies are scattered through the fields. Look closer and discover Irises peeking out of the grass. Closer to the beach, ice plants carpet the shore dunes.


Looking for an inexpensive place to stay? Check out the Point Reyes Hostel. Kind friendly folks, a great library, and a big kitchen – and this place is cheaper than camping! California State Parks charge $35.00 a night to camp, and my stay at the hostel was only $33 a night! If you don’t want to share your room, private rooms start at $105.00. The hostel is located deep within the park, just minutes from Limantour Beach.

Point Reyes is a great place to go birdwatching – it has greater avian diversity than any other park in the country! Over half the species found in the entire U.S. have been seen here. The Audubon Society protects egret and heron rookeries in Bolinas Lagoon.

Surprisingly, my favorite bird to watch on this trip was the vulture. I’ve watched them flying before, but this was the first time I had a chance to see them just hanging out perched. I was struck by how concerned about hygiene this “dirty bird” was, continually grooming its feathers!

There are other great wildlife viewing opportunities at Point Reyes. Go up to the lighthouse and watch for whales migrating offshore. Tule elk are found in the meadows. There is an elephant seal colony here, too.
My favorite beach was Drake’s Beach. Big cliffs, wide expanse of sand, incredible views – and I found a friend there. It seems not all seals stay in the colony. Occasionally an enterprising individual explores another beach. I sat on a sandstone outcropping to watch the water, and found out one of the driftwood logs was not a log! I moved away to give the animal space and used the telephoto, but not everyone is so considerate.
Note how not only are these people too close, they are cutting this seal off from the sea and cornering it against the cliffs. Please give the seals at least 100 feet of space if you see them, and if you are in between them and the water, keep moving! Just common courtesy for your fellow creature.

This is a park that could use a little TLC. Looks a bit like the proverbial red-headed stepchild. The narrow roads are in pretty bad shape. I know California has had a tough winter, but it looks like a lot of the damage is ongoing. One restroom was closed until further notice because it needed repair. There were no ranger programs except for weekends, and no park newspaper. On hearing I was a ranger,one of the hostel hosts mentioned in conversation that the only rangers seem to be law enforcement. Signs that a park has cut interpretation, maintenance, all but essential services. Please support your national parks so they can preserve our treasures,for all of us – places to rest and rejuvenate, places for inspiration and exploration, places like Point Reyes National Park.

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