North Meets South – Changes In Latitudes

Denali National Park

North meets South annually in my life.  I migrate. As beautiful as Alaska is in the winter, like the birds and the whales, I prefer to head for warmer climes when the days get shorter.

North meets South in flowers
In the following pairs of flowers, can you tell which is North and which is South?

For years I worked in Death Valley National Park in the winter. People used to tell me, “Wow, you go from one extreme to the other! But I didn’t see it that way.

Death Valley National Park
Death Valley or Denali?

Sure, there are big differences.  In some years I was moving from a park that contained the highest point in North America, Denali, to a park that held the lowest point, the Badwater Basin. But I was actually avoiding the extremes through my travels- escaping the cold of winter in Alaska and dodging the heat of summer in Death Valley.

Blackish Oxytrope
Plants in both places use many of the same strategies to survive.

The predominant colors were different, it’s true – shades of green in Denali and shades of brown in the desert. But the landscapes were surprisingly similar.

North meets South in flowers
That’s why they look so similar.

In fact, there were far more similarities than there were differences. North meets South, sharing many of the same attributes. When I first applied for a job in Death Valley, an Alaskan friend told me that I’d find it more like home than anywhere else in the lower 48. He was right.

Panamint Valley
The landscapes aren’t all that different.

Immense, open panoramas abound in both.  The vastness cannot be described, it needs to be experienced. They are landscapes that make you aware of your own insignificance. Death Valley is the largest park in the contiguous United States. Denali is even bigger.  In most places, these landscapes seem endless because there are few to no trees. When I worked in Denali, I lived at the Toklat Road Camp, 50 miles into the park. I was surrounded by alpine tundra, not trees.

Denali National Park
They’re both vast.

There are parallels in many of the geological features.  Both contain rugged mountain ranges divided by wide valleys. Alluvial fans and glacial outwash plains look surprisingly similar. The raw, naked geology is exciting. The stories that the rocks tell are so much easier to understand in barren landscapes like these.

North Meets South
A nameless canyon in the Black Mountains

One aspect that delights me is that both parks are filled with countless nameless canyons to explore. These landscapes invite you to wander.

North Meets South
A nameless canyon on Polychrome Mountain

Sometimes you find similar treasures as you explore these canyons. Did these horns come from Death Valley or Denali?

Dall's Sheep horns Denali National Park
Denali or Death Valley?

One way North meets South is through the commonalities of their wildflowers. Both Denali and Death Valley can have phenomenal flower seasons. And plants in both parks use similar adaptations to survive in their harsh environments.

rare penstemon found on Lee's Flat
Both parks host an incredible variety of wildflower species.

Both Denali and Death Valley pose extremely difficult challenges for the plants and animals that live there. Although one place is scorching hot and the other bitterly cold, they share an element that amplifies the effects of both extremes – wind.

Common Lousewort
They’re not all belly flowers!

In both places, the growing season is short but intense. In both, you’ll also find that a lot of flowers grow low to the ground.  Belly flowers. They often grow closely in mounds or in mats covering the ground, working together to avoid the drying effects of the relentless wind.

Purple Mat
Growing low to the ground in a mound can protect the flowers from wind and conserve water.

Many plants in both places are covered with fine hairs, which keep Denali’s flowers a little warmer and protect Death Valley’s from the harsh sun.

Denali or Death Valley?

The biggest draw for me personally is that both Denali and Death Valley are incredibly wild, something I’m aching for on tame, benevolent Orcas Island this winter. There is something about the harshness of those landscapes that speaks to my soul. And of course, they’re also both awe-inspiringly beautiful.

Denali National Park
Denali National Park

Thank you, Amy, for this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, East Meets West (or North Meets South).

Death Valley National Park
Death Valley National Park

Stone Trees

 

Do you like rocks? I do. That’s why I like Petrified Forest National Park so much. Petrified Forest has some of the coolest rocks you’ll see anywhere.

Step back in time to the Dawn of the Dinosaurs. Picture a tropical rain forest – say, something like the Amazon. But with a bigger river, even bigger than the Amazon.  As trees in the forest fall from wind or water, they’re carried down the river until they sink and are buried in the mud. It’s a weird world where these trees grow. There are dinosaurs, even some tiny pterodactyls. The real giants, though, are the crocodiles. They’re even bigger than the dinosaurs! A monster amphibian lives in the river, too. It looks like no amphibian you’ve ever seen. This is one scary animal. A predator, it resembles a dinosaur, is as big as a dinosaur, too, but stocky. The bones of all these creatures have been found in the Petrified Forest.Over time, the trees are buried deeper and deeper. The world goes through changes, and volcanic ash inundates the land that once supported a tropical forest. Water, loaded with dissolved silica and minerals from the volcanic ash, seeps down and replaces the wood with the silica and minerals. The trees are turned to stone. Time and erosion brought this ancient landscape back to light. Logs, rainbow remnants of an ancient age, litter the land. Petrified wood is not the only color found here. These jewels are set against a background of beautiful badlands and banded buttes. Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona The National Park includes part of Arizona’s Painted Desert. As I walk out over the land, or look closer at the petrified wood, it reminds me of the subtle hues of a Navajo weaving. It’s easy to see where their designs originated.

Agate House

Before the Navajo, this was the home of Ancestral Puebloans. Their traces remain throughout the park. One of the most popular trails leads to Agate House, a ruin built with petrified wood.I know you will covet the beautiful stones, but please restrain yourself. Don’t steal from your grandchildren. Leave these lovely rocks for them to enjoy! If you just have to bring a piece home, I understand the feeling. But there are better options. You can buy petrified wood found on private land just outside the park. If you want to find your own, there are places outside the park you can go. If you want a lot, talk to Patton and Sons at the rock shop just south of the park. They’ll let you collect off their property for just 50 cents a pound. There’s a 25 pound minimum. If you want just a little, look on Silver Creek south of Holbrook. For more ideas, check out Bessie Simpson and James R. Mitchell’s Gem Trails of Arizona.

Come to the Petrified Forest and enjoy the colors!

Please don’t steal from your grandchildren. Leave these rocks in the national park.

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The Colorado Plateau

La Sal Mountains

I love my home in Alaska, but there ARE a few things I miss about the Lower 48. Of course I miss family and old friends. I miss hummingbirds. I miss thunderstorms. Living in the Rockies, I had them three times a day. In McCarthy, it’s more like three times a summer. But what I miss the most is the Colorado Plateau.

The Colorado Plateau is where the mountains meet the desert. It’s the best of both worlds. When I worked ski resorts, I used to spend a month here every spring.   Camping on the Colorado PlateauIt’s a magic place. There’s a reason why the Colorado Plateau has the highest concentration of parklands in North America. Ten national parks, eighteen national monuments, and all sorts of state parks and national recreation areas, too.

Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah

Geologically, the Colorado Plateau is an island of stability surrounded by chaos. A single intact tectonic block, it has survived relatively untouched by the dramatic episodes of mountain building taking place to the east or the stretching and tectonic events of the Basin & Range Province to the west. Erosion is the main force shaping this landscape.

Circle Cliffs, Capital Reef N.P. Hiking or floating through the convoluted canyons will reward you with spectacular scenery, slickrock hoodoos, secret slots and hidden arches. You never know what you’ll find around the next bend.

Wilson Arch
Wilson Arch

You can travel through deep time, finding remnants of past worlds in the layered rock. Dinosaur tracks and bones. Ancient forests turned to stone. And, oh, the colors!

This is a sacred land. You will find traces of those who lived here before us. Petroglyphs, pictographs, and ruins from Ancient Puebloan cultures abound. Many Native Americans still call this place home.

Petroglyphs, Dinosaur National Monument
Petroglyphs, Dinosaur National Monument

Walk out into the night. You will experience some of the darkest skies on the continent.

I’m just passing through this time around. But I will be back – to one of my favorite places in the world, the Colorado Plateau.