Neighbors

Baby Moose

OK, I’m back. It’s been a while since I wrote a post, more than six months. My Mom passed away and then life got really busy. I needed time to grieve. Something had to give, and with the internet connection challenges of my remote rural Alaska home, it was the blog. But I’m back now, and I wanted to mention a few of my neighbors, who I can always count on to bring a smile to my face.

I’m not talking about just my human neighbors, although they, too, can be counted on to bring a smile to my face. I’m not the only one who’s gotten busier lately. We seldom have time to visit anymore.

porcupine
Pesky porcupine

I see a lot more of my other neighbors, the wild ones. They visit often.  Some of them are practically roommates, like the porcupine who moved in under the house in the spring of 2020, when I was a little late getting back home to Alaska due to Covid. I had to evict that squatter. He was a bad roommate. He chewed up the hose connecting my propane tank to the house.

Pine Grosbeak
Songbirds bring joy to my life.

Some neighbors are always welcome. My favorites are the songbirds. Waking up to their songs brings joy to my life daily.

Spruce Grouse
Where do they go?

Another species that I see often in the fall is the spruce grouse. It’s a mystery. I don’t understand it. These birds don’t migrate. They live here year-round. Yet they’re everywhere in the fall, but you NEVER see them in the spring and summer. Where are they? It is a mystery.

Snowshoe Hare
Baby bunny

The snowshoe hares go through big population boom and busts, too. It’s about an 11-year cycle. Some years you are practically tripping on them, there are so many. Then the population crashes and you can go a whole summer and maybe see one.

Pine Marten
A very scruffy marten

Some neighbors can be obnoxious. I’m talking about tree rats, aka squirrels. They have no conception of private property and will trash your house and steal your insulation to use in their own home. Obnoxious. So I was really glad to see a new addition to my neighborhood this fall, a pine martin. He’ll clean out those pesky squirrels!

Young Bull Moose
Young Bull Moose

Another neighbor I’m usually happy to see is the moose. They’re good at teaching ME that lesson about private property. The lesson that there is no such thing. My land belongs to them, too.  I hate to have them visit when they are intent on eating the garden or chowing down on that going-to-be oh-so-photogenic patch of head-high fireweed blossoms that would perfectly set off my best view, the day before they would flower.

Black Bear Cubs
Cute, but stay outta my yard!

Then there’s the neighbor that Alaska is famous for, the one I am much happier NOT seeing in my yard. Ever. Bears. I could see either black bear or grizzlies in my neighborhood, although thank goodness not as often as I saw them when I was renting a house in the middle of a soapberry patch. But you have to always be aware, every single time you walk out the door, that they could be there, maybe just around the corner. I mean, I’m glad I live in a place where I can still run into a bear on Main Street, as I did this summer in Kennecott. But I hope they stay away from my house!

Red Salmon
New neighbors

I have another new neighbor in the ‘hood, down in McCarthy town, in Clear Creek, where I get my water. We are getting a few, though I wouldn’t call it a run yet, red salmon now coming up Clear Creek. We’ve had an October run of silver salmon for a long time, but the reds have only started showing up the last few years, in August.

Swan Family
Swan Family

It’s because of the dynamic landscape we live in, constantly changing and changing ever more quickly these days due to the glacial retreat caused by global climate change. The hydrological changes in the town of McCarthy are especially striking. Land that was forest when I first moved here is now wetland. The little pond at the toe of the glacier is now a big lake. These changes have made the area more attractive for some creatures, like beaver and salmon, but caused some big challenges for us, the human residents.

Dall's Sheep above Chitina
Dall’s Sheep above Chitina

There are other neighbors living a little farther away, but still in what I would consider the neighborhood. These friends I don’t see as often maybe but enjoy whenever I get the chance. There’s that family of swans in the Chokosna ponds area. It’s always nice to catch up with them, and see how many cygnets they’re raising this year.  I might see the occasional bald eagle, or rarer still, a glimpse of Dall’s Sheep in the Crystalline Hills or up above the town of Chitina. Maybe I’ll see a lynx along the McCarthy Road, or a weasel in Kennecott. I’m glad to live in a community with so many wonderful neighbors!

Bald Eagle
Bald Eagle on the McCarthy Road

Thanks to Anne of Slow Shutter Speed for this week’s Lens-Artist Photography Challenge, “Wildlife Close To Home”.

 

The Elephant Seals of Piedras Blancas

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California

Not all stories about animals threatened with extinction end sadly. I’d like to share with you an animal comeback success story.

Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Family Portrait

Before the advent of kerosene, seals were hunted as ruthlessly as whales, and for the same reason. Oil. Both seal and whale oil were in great demand for lighting up people’s homes at night.

One seal in particular was prized, the elephant seal. They are really big animals. The male can weigh up to two and a half tons. Due to its great size and thick blubber, an elephant seal could render an immense quantity of oil. Northern elephant seals were hunted relentlessly, until the species was on the brink of extinction. By 1913, only 30  were left, a small herd that spent its onshore time on Guadalupe Island off the coast of Mexico.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Elephant seal bulls fight for dominance

Realizing that extinction was imminent, the Mexican government took steps to protect the last of the elephant seals. Their stringent protection measures were successful. The elephant seals survived. Over time, they even began to thrive.

As the population of elephant seals rose, they began to recolonize some of their former territories, eventually moving north to the waters off the coast of California.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

Elephant seals are amazing animals. They spend most of their lives in the deep ocean.  Superbly adapted to their life in the sea,  they spend 90% of their time there underwater. They migrate thousands of miles, swimming up to 60 miles in a day. Elephant seals can dive deeper than any other mammal, including whales. Although most of their dives are 300-600 meters, they can dive down as deep as a mile under the surface of the sea. They can even hold their breath for almost 2 hours without resurfacing.

Although the majority of their time is spent far offshore, elephant seals do need to come to land to breed, birth and molt.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
She loves all babies!

One of the places they have recently returned to is a beach just south of Piedras Blancas Point, at the southern end of the Big Sur coastline.

Elephant seals began to make Piedras Blancas home in the 1990s. At first there were only a couple of dozen seals landing there. In those early days, the local community viewed the return of elephant seals as a bit of a problem. The beach they were landing on was popular with surfers, and there was a concern about the possibility of conflict between the seals and the surfers. There was also a discussion about the seals interfering with traffic on Highway 1.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Bull elephant seal vocalizing

Sometimes they do actually make it across the highway. Not often, though. They need to be on the beach.

A management plan for the seals was debated. Education, not regulation, was key to the success of the plan. It also required a bit of a compromise. The surfers would have to sacrifice their beach for the good of the seals.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Unwanted advances

A non-profit organization, Friends of the Elephant Seals, trained docents to staff the area and educate visitors when the seals were active. A small fence was built to keep the seals off the highway and discourage people from approaching too closely.

The plan was a success. The elephant seal population increased exponentially, growing from that two dozen in the early 1990s to 17,000 in 2018.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
There are lots of little babies being born!

Piedras Blancas is now one of the biggest seal rookeries in California, hosting about 10% of the entire world population of Northern Elephant Seals.

The numbers are still increasing. Here at Piedras Blancas, about five thousand babies are born a year.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Are you my daddy?

Since their numbers are increasing, though, the beaches they already inhabit may not be enough. During the recent government shutdown, the elephant seals at Point Reyes National Seashore took over Drake’s Beach, formerly a favorite of the park’s human visitors. Like the earlier debate at Piedras Blancas, officials are not quite sure what to do about it but are leaning toward education and giving it back to the seals. Do you really want to argue with a two and a half ton bull elephant seal, and all his friends and relations?

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This dude is U-G-L-Y!

The gargantuan bull elephant seals just may  be the ugliest animals on Earth. Sometimes they look rather comical. This must be where Sesame Street’s Snuffleupagus came from. Other times, well, they’re just plain ugly. At least four, sometimes up to ten times the size of the females, these behemoths look like they belong to a completely different species.

Males fight for territory and breeding rights. Although the fighting can get ugly, usually vocalizations and posturing will cause one of the two combatants to back down.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This poor baby is about to get squashed!

Mating is often, although not always, brutal. Females usually resist, trying to move away and screaming loudly, flinging sand into the bull’s face. They are bit and clobbered and violently restrained by the males. Sometimes babies are crushed by the ardent bulls pursuing their mothers and die later from internal injuries. Imagine a human getting run over by a truck. It’s kind of like that, a hundred pound pup squashed under an oblivious two ton bull.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Get outta my face, bitch!

Hostility and aggression are not confined to the males. The females fight often among themselves, too.  As I watched one cow and her pup argue, I thought, “Is that any way to treat your poor little newborn baby?” Anthropomorphisizing, I know!  Elephant seals seem like such an ill-tempered race.  Their time on land must be incredibly stressful.

Maybe they just need a Snickers bar. During their time ashore, elephant seals neither eat nor drink. Males may stay on the beach up to 100 days.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Unbelievable!

Females will only spend 4-6 weeks at a time on land, but nursing a pup will take its toll. Mothers lose two pounds for every pound a pup gains. They will lose about a third of their body weight during their time onshore. That and they’re getting randomly raped. It’s enough to make anyone grouchy!

January and February are the best months to watch all the action at the rookery. Births, nursing, mating, fighting for dominance all happen at that time. There’s a lot going on. It’s fascinating to watch.

Seals mating, Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Seal porn

Observing the elephant seals leaves me with a couple of thoughts to ponder, that I’d like to share with you. Are we going to be OK with giving up a beach every 20 years or so to let another species thrive? Or are we too selfish to allow even that?

The other is a ray of hope. If the elephant seals can come back after being almost completely exterminated by human causes, can we bring some of today’s endangered species, like the Monarch Butterfly, back from the brink? I think we can, if we want it enough. I hope we do.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal rookery, California
Baby elephant seal nursing