My Favorite Places

Stairway Icefall

This week I’d like to share with you all some of my favorite places, ones I will miss this winter as I practice The Middle Way on Orcas Island. This week’s Lens-Artist’s Photo Challenge is Home Sweet Home. Tina Schell of Travels and Trifles asks us, ” If a foreigner were to spend a week or a month traveling your home country with you, where would you take them? What sights would you tell them to be sure to see? Where have you found some of your own favorite images? What is it you truly love about where you live, or places you’ve seen in your home country? ”

Southern Colorado
First snow in the Colorado mountains

Well, they would need at LEAST a month for all MY favorite places.  Although I grew up in Colorado and now live in Alaska, I feel at home throughout the West. I’ll start with Colorado. I was raised in Colorado, and lived there for many, many years after I went out on my own. It’s probably where I’ll end up when I get too old to live deep in the wilderness in Alaska. My family is there. Colorado is always close to my heart.

Petrified Forest National Park
Petrified Forest National Park

Although I’m at home throughout the West, I do have a few favorite places that I try to visit whenever I have the chance. One is the Colorado Plateau. This region covers big chunks of 4 different states: Colorado, New Mexico, Utah and Arizona. I can’t narrow my favorite down to just one or two places in this area, it’s all so amazing. My advice to a foreign visitor might be to check out a few places that are not as well-known as iconic parks like Arches and Zion. Although I love them, too, they ARE getting loved to death and it might be good to try to spread that impact out a little. Lesser-known places such as Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument and Petrified Forest National Park contain wonders, too.

Colorado Plateau
Grosvenor Arch in Grand Staircase-Escalante

Another favorite place is Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge in central New Mexico. This is the best place I’ve ever been for birds. It is the winter home for vast flocks of Snow Geese and Sandhill Cranes.  Over 340 different species of birds live there. It is an incredible place to observe wildlife.

Sandhill Cranes
Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

I spent 8 winters working as a ranger in Death Valley National Park. It is another desert that has captured my heart. The great thing about Death Valley is that because the altitude on the valley floor is so low (the lowest elevation in North America), the nights are seldom cold, even during the deepest darkest months of winter. Makes for great camping, and the rattlesnakes sleep in the winter! It’s an incredibly diverse park, with elevations ranging from below sea level to over 11,000 feet.

I did a little playing with LightRoom on this image. It was a daytime image and the background of bare dirt desert ground was a bit meh so I darkened it until it resembled the night sky, and tried to give a nighttime feel to the dunes, too. Since Death Valley is famed as a night sky park, and since one of my favorite things to do is to walk through the sand dunes under the full moon, I wanted to capture the feel of that experience in this image.

Mesquite Sand Dunes
I love to hike the sand dunes in the moonlight.

And then there’s the bloom. If there is rain in the desert, and if it is timed right, the wildflowers will rock your world. If it seems like it might be a good year for the flowers, I try to make a circuit that starts near the Mexican border in Anza-Borrego State Park, moving through Joshua Tree and Mojave National Preserve until I end up in Death Valley.

Anza-Borrego State Park
Love those desert wildflowers!

Further west on the California coast you will find another great wildlife phenomenon, the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas near San Simeon. Although you can find a few seals there at any time of year, December through February are the best months. Thousands of seals converge on the beaches, with the big strange-looking bulls battling it out for the right to own a piece of the beach, and all the females on it. The cows are birthing and raising their babies then, too. It’s an extraordinary spot to witness wildlife drama, so close you don’t even need binoculars to see it.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery
Sex on the Beach

From the campground at San Simeon I can walk to the beach and see some fantastic bird action on the sea stack that looms just offshore there. It’s an awesome place to catch the sunset.

Farther north along the California coast is Mendocino County. It’s my favorite part of the California Coast. I think the scenery is even more dramatic than Big Sur, and without the crowds. It’s got big trees, too.

Greenwood Beach
The beaches in Mendo are wild and uncrowded.

Speaking of big trees, I’ve really fallen in love with the tallest trees in the world, the redwoods, over the last few years.

Redwood National Park
Tall Trees

Sometimes I go straight up the coast into Oregon. Other times I head for the Siskiyou country near Grants Pass and Williams. The trees there are incredibly graceful and beautiful and it’s my last chance to see wildflowers as I head north.

Pacifica
Oregon has some incredible trees!

But no matter which way I go, I try to hit the coast at Bandon. It is so much fun to shoot the sea stacks there!

Bandon, OR
Sea stacks at Bandon

The Olympic Peninsula is my next favorite place. The old-growth forests redefine green and the wild beaches are phenomenal.

Olympic National Park
Ferns and feathers

And then there’s Alaska. It’s where my heart is, my community, my job, my life. My first love in Alaska was Denali National Park and I try to go there whenever I get a chance.

Dall's Sheep
I love Denali!

But home is McCarthy, in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park. I truly believe it’s the most spectacular place in North America. Case in point – check out my daily commute! And the feature image was taken while I was standing on my front porch! It doesn’t get much better than this.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
My daily commute to work

I hope you’ve enjoyed some of my favorite places. As Jim Morrison of the Doors said, the West is the best!

My Favorite Unpublished Photos of 2019

Favorite photos of 2019

Happy New Year! Patti of Pilotfish has presented us with a delightful yet difficult challenge this week -Favorite Photos of 2019. How do you choose? It isn’t easy.

I got distracted a lot as I browsed through thousands of photos, with an image catching my eye and sending me into a memory. Focus, Di, focus! Don’t go down that rabbit hole! Is it really one of your 10 best of the year?

In the end, I couldn’t do it. I could narrow it down to 40 or so, but 10? Impossible!

So I took a page from NatGeo’s book. I COULD narrow it down to my favorite 10 unpublished photos of the year, ones that for one reason or another had not made it onto a blog post.

I’ll do this directionally. I’ll start in the northwest and make my way down towards the southeast.

Favorite Photos of 2019
Matanuska Sunrise

Matanuska Valley, Alaska

I had an early morning doctor’s appointment. However, it was a 7-hour drive from my home in remote rural Alaska to the doctor’s office. So I left after work, drove part way, slept in the back of my truck, and continued on my way just before the crack of dawn. My reward was a beautiful sunrise over the Matanuska River, one of the most spectacular sunrises I’ve ever seen. My photos don’t do it justice, but here’s my best shot at it.

 

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Life in the Wrangells

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

We have some really big mountains in the Wrangells. In fact, Wrangell-St. Elias has more mountains over 14,500 feet than anywhere else in North America. Furthermore, unlike Colorado’s 14-ers, Alaska’s mountains start from a lot closer to sea level!  They are REALLY big mountains. I like this image because you get an impression of just how big they really are.

 

Stone Mountain Provincial Park
Stone Sheep

Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia

My favorite day when I drive the Al-Can Highway is the day I drive through Stone Mountain and Muncho Lake Provincial Parks. They are both home to the somewhat rare and beautiful Stone Sheep, and if I’m lucky I might see one. This year I was able to shoot this environmental portrait of a ram doing what Stone Sheep do best, climbing cliffs.

 

2019 Favorite Photos
Swallowtail

Electra Road near Jackson, CA

Although I’m usually raving about the wildflowers in the desert, by the time April rolls around you’ll find fantastic wildflowers in the Sierra foothills, too. That’s where I captured this image of a swallowtail butterfly sipping nectar from a flower.

 

My favorite unpublished photo of 2019
The Mighty Ocean

Point Pinos, California

I think this is my new favorite photo of 2019. I don’t know why I never noticed it before. I was trying to capture the power and fury of a winter storm on the Pacific coast. Big waves. I can watch them all day.

 

Elephant Seals
Lovers

Piedras Blancas, California

One of my favorite photographic experiences of 2019 was watching the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas. It was a true wildlife drama, with hundreds of seals birthing, mating and fighting just yards away from their human voyeurs. As I watched, the seals struck me as some of the most ill-tempered animals I’d ever seen, always fighting and arguing – all of them, not just the bulls. Mating, in most cases, seemed exceptionally harsh and brutal. This couple was the exception. They seemed, dare I say it, actually content and peaceful with each other! I tried to capture that feeling.

 

Joshua Tree National Park
Pink-Flower Hedgehog Cactus

Joshua Tree National Park

If you follow my blog at all, you know that no roundup of my favorite photos of 2019  would be complete without at least one closeup of a desert wildflower. I love getting up all close and personal with cactus blossoms. They’re exquisite. I found this one in Joshua Tree National Park.

 

Anza Borrego State Park
Sunrise in Coachwhip Canyon

Anza Borrego State Park, California

Because my little Toyota truck is only 2 wheel drive, sometimes my dispersed camping options are somewhat limited. I find myself returning to one particular campsite in Anza Borrego again and again. But even though flowers are going crazy in the rest of the park, there are usually very few or no flowers in my favorite canyon. This year was different. This year, my camping canyon was one of the park’s wildflower hotspots. I took this photo from the hill behind my camp.

 

Favorite photos of 2019
Arizona Sunset

Tucson, Arizona

There’s a reason Arizona is famous for its sunsets. Just sayin’.

Well, I had a hard time picking my favorite. And I find it hard to be objective. Each image is colored by the experience that accompanied it.

How about you? Which one is your favorite? Let me know in the comments.

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2019 Photography Destinations – A Baker’s Dozen of My Personal Favorites Part 2

Favorite 2019 Photography Destinations

The countdown continues. A few days ago I posted spots 13 through 7 of my favorite 2019 photography destinations.  This week, I list the best ones of all, the destinations that rated 1 through 6 of my personal best.

6) Joshua Tree National Park

Superbloom. Joshua Tree had one this past spring. Need I say more? This coming spring should be fairly good, too. It’s been raining and snowing with more rain and snow in the forecast. Even if the flowers aren’t as spectacular as they were last spring, Joshua Tree is still a great place to visit. It is also home to some very cool rocks. One of these days I plan to spend more time in the rocks – when I’m not so distracted by the flowers.Lupines, Joshua Tree National Park

5) Anza Borrego State Park

Anza Borrego also had an excellent wildflower season. It was definitely one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations, as I got to visit not once, not twice, but three times! I saw different plants blooming each time. I even saw my favorite campsite in the park in bloom, something I’ve never been lucky enough to catch before.

Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA

4) Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

It’s all about the birds. And the peace. And the serenity.

Each winter vast numbers of sandhill cranes and snow geese descend upon the refuge for the winter. There are lots of other birds and wildlife, too.

It’s a great place to polish your craft. It has become one of my new favorite places.

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Northern Pintail

3) San Simeon

Since I had a couple of different housesits on the central California Coast,  Piedras Blancas and San Simeon became one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations. I spent a lot of time camping at San Simeon; before, in between and after my housesits.

Down on the beach right below the campground, there is a bird sanctuary. I took advantage of the wonderful opportunities for checking out the shorebirds there. And then there’s Cambria, just a few miles south. I love that little town, and I especially love Moonstone Beach, with all the pretty pebbles.

I’d been to San Simeon before and loved it, but never at the prime time for the elephant seal action. January and February are when the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, just a few miles up the coast, are birthing, fighting, and mating.  It’s a true wildlife extravaganza!

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

2) Carrizo Plains National Monument

This is definitely one of my new favorite places. Most of the year you’d never give it a second glance. But when the flowers bloom in the springtime, this land is amazing. Possibly the best wildflower display I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something. The most incredible thing, though, is the fragrance. In some places, the blend of different floral scents is pure nirvana. Take lots of deep breaths. The huge swaths of color, whole hillsides dyed pink, purple or yellow from acres upon acres of blooms can be pretty dang impressive, too.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Owl’s Clover & Goldfields

1) Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

There’s no place like home. Especially when your home is possibly the most spectacular place in North America! When I look at the view I get right from my front porch, it’s a wonder I ever leave the place!

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
This is my commute!

I hope you enjoyed checking out my favorite photographic destinations for 2019. 2020 will bring a host of new experiences. Some of my favorites will remain the same, but I’m sure I’ll find a treasure trove of new favorites, too. Where do you plan to go in 2020? Let me know in the comments.

The Elephant Seals of Piedras Blancas

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California

Not all stories about animals threatened with extinction end sadly. I’d like to share with you an animal comeback success story.

Elephant Seals at Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Family Portrait

Before the advent of kerosene, seals were hunted as ruthlessly as whales, and for the same reason. Oil. Both seal and whale oil were in great demand for lighting up people’s homes at night.

One seal in particular was prized, the elephant seal. They are really big animals. The male can weigh up to two and a half tons. Due to its great size and thick blubber, an elephant seal could render an immense quantity of oil. Northern elephant seals were hunted relentlessly, until the species was on the brink of extinction. By 1913, only 30  were left, a small herd that spent its onshore time on Guadalupe Island off the coast of Mexico.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Elephant seal bulls fight for dominance

Realizing that extinction was imminent, the Mexican government took steps to protect the last of the elephant seals. Their stringent protection measures were successful. The elephant seals survived. Over time, they even began to thrive.

As the population of elephant seals rose, they began to recolonize some of their former territories, eventually moving north to the waters off the coast of California.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

Elephant seals are amazing animals. They spend most of their lives in the deep ocean.  Superbly adapted to their life in the sea,  they spend 90% of their time there underwater. They migrate thousands of miles, swimming up to 60 miles in a day. Elephant seals can dive deeper than any other mammal, including whales. Although most of their dives are 300-600 meters, they can dive down as deep as a mile under the surface of the sea. They can even hold their breath for almost 2 hours without resurfacing.

Although the majority of their time is spent far offshore, elephant seals do need to come to land to breed, birth and molt.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
She loves all babies!

One of the places they have recently returned to is a beach just south of Piedras Blancas Point, at the southern end of the Big Sur coastline.

Elephant seals began to make Piedras Blancas home in the 1990s. At first there were only a couple of dozen seals landing there. In those early days, the local community viewed the return of elephant seals as a bit of a problem. The beach they were landing on was popular with surfers, and there was a concern about the possibility of conflict between the seals and the surfers. There was also a discussion about the seals interfering with traffic on Highway 1.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Bull elephant seal vocalizing

Sometimes they do actually make it across the highway. Not often, though. They need to be on the beach.

A management plan for the seals was debated. Education, not regulation, was key to the success of the plan. It also required a bit of a compromise. The surfers would have to sacrifice their beach for the good of the seals.

Piedras Blancas rookery, California
Unwanted advances

A non-profit organization, Friends of the Elephant Seals, trained docents to staff the area and educate visitors when the seals were active. A small fence was built to keep the seals off the highway and discourage people from approaching too closely.

The plan was a success. The elephant seal population increased exponentially, growing from that two dozen in the early 1990s to 17,000 in 2018.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
There are lots of little babies being born!

Piedras Blancas is now one of the biggest seal rookeries in California, hosting about 10% of the entire world population of Northern Elephant Seals.

The numbers are still increasing. Here at Piedras Blancas, about five thousand babies are born a year.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Are you my daddy?

Since their numbers are increasing, though, the beaches they already inhabit may not be enough. During the recent government shutdown, the elephant seals at Point Reyes National Seashore took over Drake’s Beach, formerly a favorite of the park’s human visitors. Like the earlier debate at Piedras Blancas, officials are not quite sure what to do about it but are leaning toward education and giving it back to the seals. Do you really want to argue with a two and a half ton bull elephant seal, and all his friends and relations?

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This dude is U-G-L-Y!

The gargantuan bull elephant seals just may  be the ugliest animals on Earth. Sometimes they look rather comical. This must be where Sesame Street’s Snuffleupagus came from. Other times, well, they’re just plain ugly. At least four, sometimes up to ten times the size of the females, these behemoths look like they belong to a completely different species.

Males fight for territory and breeding rights. Although the fighting can get ugly, usually vocalizations and posturing will cause one of the two combatants to back down.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
This poor baby is about to get squashed!

Mating is often, although not always, brutal. Females usually resist, trying to move away and screaming loudly, flinging sand into the bull’s face. They are bit and clobbered and violently restrained by the males. Sometimes babies are crushed by the ardent bulls pursuing their mothers and die later from internal injuries. Imagine a human getting run over by a truck. It’s kind of like that, a hundred pound pup squashed under an oblivious two ton bull.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Get outta my face, bitch!

Hostility and aggression are not confined to the males. The females fight often among themselves, too.  As I watched one cow and her pup argue, I thought, “Is that any way to treat your poor little newborn baby?” Anthropomorphisizing, I know!  Elephant seals seem like such an ill-tempered race.  Their time on land must be incredibly stressful.

Maybe they just need a Snickers bar. During their time ashore, elephant seals neither eat nor drink. Males may stay on the beach up to 100 days.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Unbelievable!

Females will only spend 4-6 weeks at a time on land, but nursing a pup will take its toll. Mothers lose two pounds for every pound a pup gains. They will lose about a third of their body weight during their time onshore. That and they’re getting randomly raped. It’s enough to make anyone grouchy!

January and February are the best months to watch all the action at the rookery. Births, nursing, mating, fighting for dominance all happen at that time. There’s a lot going on. It’s fascinating to watch.

Seals mating, Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
Seal porn

Observing the elephant seals leaves me with a couple of thoughts to ponder, that I’d like to share with you. Are we going to be OK with giving up a beach every 20 years or so to let another species thrive? Or are we too selfish to allow even that?

The other is a ray of hope. If the elephant seals can come back after being almost completely exterminated by human causes, can we bring some of today’s endangered species, like the Monarch Butterfly, back from the brink? I think we can, if we want it enough. I hope we do.

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal rookery, California
Baby elephant seal nursing

 

 

San Simeon Beaches

San Simeon Beach

The first time I slept on the beach was at San Simeon.

I was 17 and had hitchhiked from Colorado to California with a friend. Traveling up the California coast one evening, we asked the young guy who gave us a ride if he knew of a good place where we could camp.

Moonstone Beach, Cambria
Even the rocks look like seals here!

He stopped the truck in the middle of nowhere. He said, “Walk through these trees to the beach. Camp there.”

The towering waves were quite impressive to a couple of mountain girls who had never walked a beach. The ocean was so LOUD! I turned to Judy and said “We’ll never get to sleep with all this noise.”

It was one of the best nights of sleep I ever had.I never forgot that night, but it was a very long time before I returned.

Bull elephant seal
What a weird looking animal!

The first time I ever saw elephant seals was on TV. It was a National Geographic show about  South Georgia Island near Antarctica.  They were fascinating.  Elephant seals can dive down as deep as a mile underwater and stay down for up to two hours. I thought they were some of the strangest, most exotic animals I had ever seen.

Immature elephant seals jousting at Piedras Blancas
Practice at asserting dominance starts at a very young age

Imagine my surprise when I found out that I didn’t have to go all the way to the southern hemisphere to see these strange animals. That I could see them in California, just a few scant miles from where I’d first experienced the ocean!

I’ve been back to the Cambria/San Simeon area a few times in the last few years. It’s my favorite place on the central California Coast. Elephant seals are just the beginning.

Moonstone Beach in Cambria, CA
Moonstone Beach

You can find treasures on the beach. Moonstone Beach is famous for its moonstones, but what I really like are the wave-polished, colorful agates. I could sift through the pebbles here for hours.

Cambria is a lovely little town. My favorite place to stay here is the Bridge Street Inn, a sweet hostel/B&B just a block and a half off Main St. The rooms are lovely, there is a good kitchen available for guests, and the hosts are kind. I highly recommend it.

If the weather’s nice, though, I’ll be camping. San Simeon Campground is just an underpass away from the most incredible birdwatching beach. There’s a (barely) offshore island there that is part of the Piedras Blancas section of the California Coastal National Monument.

Pelicans on the Central California Coast
Pelicans on the wing

Pelicans, cormorants, whimbrels, sandpipers, egrets, herons, and vultures are only a few of the birds you can see here with just a short walk.

My main draw, though, remains the elephant seals. You can see them pretty much any time of year, but the best time of year to see them is in the winter, November through February. That’s when all the action – fighting, breeding and birthing – takes place. Viewing platforms are only a few feet from the seals – and the best part  is – it’s free!

California Coastal National Monument sunset
Sunset at Piedras Blancas