Orcas Island: A New Experience

Orcas Island Sunset

Housesitting on Orcas Island this winter was a new experience for me, in many different ways. It was the first time I’d lived in an oceanfront property. I really enjoyed that! That is an experience I wouldn’t mind repeating! This was also the first time I’d lined up a housesit that lasted the entire winter.

New Experience: oceanfront property
This was my winter housesit.

There were a lot of reasons why staying in one place for a big chunk of time seemed like a good idea. I had a lot of projects that I needed to really focus on, instead of letting myself get distracted by the next adventure. Although most of those projects are still unfinished, I did make a huge amount of progress.

New Experience: Pacific Northwest
Could I be happy living in the Pacific Northwest?

Another reason I wanted to spend time in one place is that I have kind of been scouting for a new home, trying to figure out where I could live and still be happy after spending nearly half my lifetime in Never Never Land, the coolest town in the Universe, McCarthy. McCarthy is an amazing place to be, but there’s a reason why we call it the Do It The Hard Way Club.  It is a very physical lifestyle, and gets more and more difficult as I age. But where else can compare? Where else will I be content? I feel like I need to find a new home, but I keep putting it off.

New Experience: Island Living
Looking into Canada

Orcas Island seemed like it might be a possibility. This is a land with enough water and a gentle climate, where you can live sustainably. It would be nice to leave a lighter footprint on the Earth. But I found that Orcas wasn’t a good fit for me. There were a few things that left me sorely disappointed.

Orcas Island
Enough water and a mild climate, a place where one could live sustainably

I’ve learned that the weather doesn’t suit me. I think I already knew that, but I had to give it a try. This was the first time I’d spent more than a month in a maritime climate. It’s an experience I’m not especially anxious to repeat. Even though the San Juans are in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains and it doesn’t rain all that much here, the skies are usually grey in the winter. I didn’t see a decent sunset here for four and a half months, until about 2 weeks ago. I need more sunshine. I really do. Otherwise, the SAD Syndrome kicks in. It didn’t affect me as badly here as it does in Alaska, but I still had to struggle against the ensuing depression that strikes me when I spend too many days without sunshine and blue skies.

North Beach Rainbow
I need more colors than grey in my sky!

Another thing I really, really need are wild lands. Orcas is far too domesticated to suit me. When I first visited the San Juans, about 35 years ago, they were much wilder. Camping on Shaw Island, tiny deer with velvet antlers walked right into camp. I sat at our picnic table and watched the otters play. We camped somewhere near the ferry landing here on Orcas during that trip. It was the first time I’d ever seen tidepools and the weird and wonderful creatures that inhabit them. So I came to the San Juans this time with certain expectations. I thought I’d see otters. And deer. And tidepools.

New Experience: Fox on San Juan Island
I had to go to San Juan Island to find wildlife.

I should have known better. After all, McCarthy is very different than it was 30 years ago. Why did I expect the San Juans to stay the same? Things change, and island environments are particularly fragile and easily disrupted. There are a lot more people in the world now, and a lot less open space.

New Experience: Factories in my view
Looking East to Anacortes

A plague wiped out most of the deer on the island a couple of years ago. I’ve seen one deer, for about 3 seconds, running across the lawn the first week I was here. I haven’t seen one since. Although people keep telling me the otters still live here, I haven’t seen any. I haven’t seen any orcas, either.

Deer Harbor
The San Juans are Paradise, IF you have a boat!

Another big disappointment was that although Orcas Island has around 50 miles of hiking trails, there is very little access to the coast. It’s all privately owned. If you add up all the public beaches and coastal trails accessible by road on the island, you might come up with about two miles altogether. There’s not a public beach on the island you couldn’t walk across in ten minutes. I had no idea that there would be so little coastal access to anyone without a boat. I was really, really glad I was staying in an oceanfront property, so at least I had a way to reach the sea.

New Experience: Tidepooling
Weird and wonderful tidepool creatures

Another thing I didn’t know is that there are no negative tides during daylight hours all winter long. There have been 3 days with good tidepooling since I got here, all of them this month. I’ve made the most of them, but that was definitely a disappointment. I had so looked forward to the new experience of learning that ecosystem.

Tidepooling on Orcas Island
Some of the sea stars are making a comeback!

There’s a lesson I needed to learn. About expectations. If I’d approached this place with a beginner’s mind, without my preconceived expectations, I wouldn’t have been so disappointed.  I need to appreciate what is instead of what I think should be.

Common Merganser
Taxiing for takeoff

It’s not like I’ve seen NO wildlife. I say hello to my fellow snowbirds, a raft of Harlequin Ducks, every day. I see other waterfowl; other ducks, Canada Geese, loons, cormorants, and mergansers. I spot a seal once or twice a week and an eagle occasionally. I see something every day.

Cascade Falls
I had lots of wonderful new experiences on Orcas Island.

There were many good things that came from this winter. I heard a  lot of new music, wonderful music I never would have found out about if I hadn’t been living here. I learned to appreciate the beauty of the simple and the commonplace. I was able to sharpen my digital processing skills and worked hard on wellness. I’ve enjoyed my time here. I have no regrets.

Teasel
Learning to appreciate the beauty of the simple and commonplace

Well, maybe one. I wish I’d spent at least one more day on San Juan Island. San Juan Island has a lot of the things that I was missing here on Orcas. I saw wildlife – rabbits and foxes and shorebirds.

American Camp, San Juan National Historical Park
San Juan Island has the coastal trails and beaches.

San Juan Island has lots of public beaches and coastal trails, too. All the things I was missing so badly on Orcas, I found on San Juan Island. That was one new experience that gave me a much-needed attitude adjustment!

New Experience: Island Vista
The sun finally came out!

Then two weeks ago the sun came out. A month ago I was more than ready to leave this place. I was committed for another month, and needed that time for my many projects, but mentally and emotionally I was more than ready to go. But now I feel like I could use a couple more weeks here, to do things I’ve left undone. Such a change in attitude, brought about mostly by sunshine, low tides, and a short ferry ride to another island!

New Experience: The view from my front porch
Attitude adjustment: contentment brought about by seeing the sun.

In a couple of days I’ll be hitting the road, off to enjoy more new experiences, even though most of the roads I’ll be traveling I’ve traveled before. It’s still a different day, a different time, always a new experience. You can never step into the same river twice, right? Everything changes.

Waterfall in Judd Cove
You can never step into the same river twice.

Perhaps that’s the most important lesson for me to take away from my Orcas experience. Everything changes. It’s always a new experience. Approach every moment with a beginner’s mind and you will be filled with joy instead of disappointment as you savor your new experiences.

Orcas Island
Every day is a new experience!

Thank you to Anne of Slow Shutter Speed for this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, New Experiences.

Orcas Island sunset
Goodbye, Orcas Island. Thanks for a great winter!

 

 

 

 

Autumn in Alaska

Chugach National Forest

Fall is my favorite season in Alaska. All of the color and none of the mosquitoes! This fall I took a few little trips up north, trying to catch the colors on the tundra.

BLM Natural Area, Finger Rock
Finger Rock, Dalton Highway

My timing was not the best. We had a late spring this year, which led to a late fall. I expected a lot more color way up north on the Haul Road than I actually found there. But there were bits and pieces.

I had the same problem when I drove the Denali Highway Labor Day weekend. You know when you mix green and red when drawing or painting and get a muddy brown hue? That’s pretty much what I found in the Tangle Lakes area. In other years, I’ve come through around Labor Day and the colors were peaking or past the peak. Global climate change or just an off year? Things got better after I crossed the Susitna River.

Dwarf birch on Denali Highway
Denali Highway

Continuing north to Denali National Park, I couldn’t believe what I was seeing. The aspens had not even begun to turn! The tundra was the same muddy mixture of green turning red that I’d found in the Tangle Lakes area. What a disappointment! Most years the colors start by mid-August in Denali.

 

There WERE occasional spots of brilliance on this trip, but not a lot.

Glenn Highway aspens
Aspens in Chugach National Forest

I even drove over Hatcher Pass, only to find more of the same. Not the most colorful Alaskan autumn I’ve ever seen.
Another challenge on these trips was the weather. It was the rainiest August I think I’ve ever experienced, raining practically every day for the entire month.
September was a different story. It was one of the most fabulous Septembers I’ve ever had the joy to experience in McCarthy. Sunshine nearly every day. It was brilliant!

McCarthy Road, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Gilahina Trestle

I had to stay close to home for most of the month, so instead of the brilliant reds and oranges of the tundra, this year was all about the golden hues of aspens, willow and cottonwoods in the lower elevations. I had to turn to fireweed and roses for my red and orange fix.

Glenn Highway rose leaves
Fall rose leaves

The leaves have fallen now. Alaskans have to look to the sky for their color fix now, to the brilliant hues of the aurora. But I’m following the fall. I’m now in the Pacific Northwest, where autumn is just beginning. Lucky girl, I get to do it all over again!

Dwarf Birch near the Denali Highway
Denali Highway