Autumn is the Time for Love – If You Have Antlers

Elk herd in Glacier National Park

Autumn is my favorite time of year to visit the big, iconic national parks that adorn the crest of the Rockies – Glacier, Yellowstone, Grand Teton and Rocky Mountain. Fat and happy after a fruitful summer, with sleek new winter coats, this is the prime time of year for most animals.

Bighorn Sheep in Rocky Mountain National Park
Moose and elk aren’t the only animals you might see!

I love the beauty of the golden aspens, accented by fresh snow on the high peaks and cerulean blue skies. I love the crisp clean feel of the mountain breezes and the gurgling music of the dancing creeks. But most of all, I love listening to the elk sing.

From the time the shadows fall over the valleys until just after sunrise, the herds hang out in the big meadows in these national parks, a perfect setting for the upcoming wilderness drama.

Bull Moose Grand Teton National park
The moose are calling.

The elk are bugling. The moose are calling. It’s the rut, mating season for ungulates. Challenges are issued, battles fought. If you’re lucky, you just might get a chance to witness the pageant.

The biggest bull elk gather harems, whole herds of cows, and take on all challenges for the exclusive right to mate. The cows are not always willing to be corralled, though. This keeps the bull pretty busy.

Elk Herd in Glacier National Park
Keeping a watchful eye on the harem

Sometimes, while the dominant bull is otherwise occupied either battling a challenger or herding a recalcitrant cow, some sneaky upstart might grab the opportunity to sneak in a quickie. All this makes for some very entertaining wildlife watching.

Cow elk grazing in Yellowstone National Park
It’s nice just to watch the elk being elk.

If you plan on visiting the Rocky Mountain national parks during the rut, here are a few things to keep in mind:

1) GIVE THEM SOME SPACE!!! Have a little respect. Remember that wild animals are dangerous. Especially at this time of year, when too much testosterone has these guys feeling really combative. And they’re a lot bigger than you are. Bull moose have been known to charge freight trains. A woman was gored by a bull elk in Estes Park just last week.

Testy bull elk in Rocky Mountain National Park
Don’t mess with this guy – he’ll kick your ass!

Although these animals are not fearful because they’re not hunted within national park boundaries, they are not tame. This is not a zoo. There is no invisible fence or moat in between you and the animal if they decide you’ve gotten on their last nerve. I see more ignorant, oblivious people out there every year. Do not approach wildlife. Give them a break and give them their space!

Mule Deer stag crossing road in Rocky Mountain National Park
Wildlife crossing – Be aware!

2) Drive slow. You will be more likely to see animals camouflaged by their surroundings. More importantly, you’ll be less likely to hit an animal unexpectantly crashing out onto the road during this low light time of day. You’ll be more likely to notice an animal about to cross, affording better chances to catch that lucky shot.

Close-up of elk calf in Rocky Mountain National Park
I got this shot by using my car as a blind.

3) Your car can make a great blind. If the wildlife is on or near the road, stay in your car. Don’t stress the animal and endanger your safety. See # 1.

Man approaching elk way too closely in Yellowstone National Park
Don’t be like this guy – Back off!

4) Timing is important. You have to meet them where (and when) they are. The early bird catches the worm, or the shot, here. When the sun is out, elk fade into the forest or bed down in the tall grass. All the action happens in the evening and early morning hours.

Elk in Glacier National Park
Calves play at jousting while a bull looks on.

5) Arrive early, stay late. There is more to be gained from this experience than just a few photos. Watch. Listen. Don’t interfere. Stay a little longer. It will be medicine for your soul.

Bull elk in Rocky Mountain National Park
Bull elk in Rocky Mountain National Park

Want to hear the elk bugling but you’re nowhere near the Rockies? Check out these videos on The Nature Conservancy’s blog, Weird Green Science.

Elkhorn Slough and Moss Landing – Watchable Wildlife Treasure

Shorebirds at Elkhorn Slough, California

I spent a month this winter in Monterey, California. There were a lot of reasons I wanted to explore this part of the central California coast.  I wanted to watch wild waves in winter storms. I wanted to search for sea stars in slippery tidal pools. I wanted to hike skinny trails overlooking precipitous cliffs and crashing surf.  I  wanted to spend quality time getting to know a different environment, one I’d  had little opportunity to experience.  I wanted to commune with the coast.

I did all those things. I also found another special place, an unexpected treasure.

Elkhorn Slough
This place is for the birds!

Elkhorn Slough

Did you ever know someone who was quiet and unassuming, easy to overlook, but pure gold when you got to know them? Elkhorn Slough and Moss Landing are like that. They’re easily overshadowed by the flashier natural attractions nearby. This region to the north of Monterey doesn’t have the dramatic scenery of Big Sur or Point Lobos. It’s not a place where you can stop at a viewpoint, take an Instagram selfie, and say you’ve been there. You need to take your time here. Its power is more subtle.

 

Managing Elkhorn Slough means removing exotic eucalyptus trees and planting coastal oaks.
Lovely old oak at Elkhorn Slough

Elkhorn Slough is a mosaic of private and public land united in the effort to protect the estuary and restore it to a pristine environment. The Nature Conservancy recognized that this could be one of the last great places and got the ball rolling. The lands are now managed by the non-profit Elkhorn Slough Foundation. The waters within the slough are managed by the state. It is a State Marine Reserve and Conservation Area and a National Estuarine Research Reserve.

Elkhorn Slough is the second largest freshwater estuary in the state of California. surpassed in size only by San Francisco Bay. You might be beginning to understand why I consider this place a national treasure.

Moss Landing State Beach, California
Sea Otter napping

This is where the sea otters hang out. Elkhorn Slough hosts California’s largest concentration of sea otters. That’s right, those adorable, ultra-cute, playful little critters that melt everybody’s heart. Sea otters.

Theirs is another great comeback story. Sea otters used to range from Baja California to Alaska. They were hunted to the brink of extinction for their fur, the thickest, most luxurious fur in the world. The southern population came especially close to extinction. By 1938, only about 50 survived, living in remote waters off Big Sur.

There are nearly 3,000 sea otters in California now. They play a vital role in maintaining a healthy coastal ecosystem. They keep the kelp forests alive by eating sea urchins. The urchins’ population has exploded because their main predator, starfish,  has declined catastrophically  due to sea star wasting disease.  Sea urchins are decimating the kelp forests along most of the Pacific Coast, but Monterey Bay’s kelp forests are surviving due to the otters.

Sea otters alone are a good reason to visit Elkhorn Slough. But there’s more. Elkhorn Slough is also a birder’s delight. It provides habitat for nearly 350 different species of birds. Wading birds rule here. There are ducks galore and dozens of different kinds of shorebirds. Raptors to hunt them all. Songbirds, woodpeckers, hummingbirds, the list goes on and on.

Elkhorn Slough
Whimbrel

You would think a place like this would be overrun with visitors, but it’s not. If it had National Park or State Park after its name it would be, but there’s protection in anonymity. I visited on a Saturday and was the only participant on the ranger-led nature walk.

The best way to visit Elkhorn Slough is by kayak. Although, of course, you need to give the animals their space, you can really immerse yourself in their environment when you’re on the water.

Moss landing State Wildlife Area
Willet and Least Sandpipers

If you are visiting by land, be aware of the tides when you come. If it’s high tide, that’s the time to see the otters. Elkhorn Slough at high tide is an especially good place to see momma sea otters with their babies. If there is a king tide, though, you may not be able to reach the best blind for the sea otters. Pay attention to the tide table and the weather!

Low tide is best for bird watchers. It was low tide when I visited. The birds were fantastic, but I was a little disappointed that I’d missed the sea otters. The ranger empathized and let me in on another little known wildlife watching hot spot.

Moss Landing State Beach, California
Sea Otter Waving

Moss Landing

Moss Landing State Beach and State Wildlife area is home to a bachelor gang of sea otters. Yup, hanging out with the boys is something sea otter males do. You can find them there practically any time. They are very entertaining to watch. They have a few different games they like to play. One is wrestling, and then there are a couple they play solo; endless somersaults and continuous barrelrolling. Their favorite activity, though, seems to be napping.

Moss Landing State Beach
Snowy Egret Fishing

Moss Landing State Beach is another great birdwatching location, especially at low tide.

Walk over the dunes to the actual beach, and that’s where the surfers go. You can watch another kind of wild life there!

Moss Landing State Beach is easy to overlook. If you wait for the sign, you’ll miss it, and it’s a busy two-lane highway. It’s hard to turn around, as the traffic is often nearly bumper to bumper. If you’re coming from Monterey, look for the sign that says “Jetty Road” after you pass by the tiny village of Moss Landing.

Moss Landing, CA
You can see seals, here, too!

In the town of Moss Landing, there is yet another great wildlife watching opportunity. Salinas River State Beach and Wildlife Area is at the end of the road.

If you’re in the Monterey area, take a day off from the flashier destinations and head north to Elkhorn Slough and Moss Landing. You’ll be glad you did!

Great Blue Heron

 

Great Blue Heron
Heron Fishing