Stone Trees

 

Do you like rocks? I do. That’s why I like Petrified Forest National Park so much. Petrified Forest has some of the coolest rocks you’ll see anywhere.

Step back in time to the Dawn of the Dinosaurs. Picture a tropical rain forest – say, something like the Amazon. But with a bigger river, even bigger than the Amazon.  As trees in the forest fall from wind or water, they’re carried down the river until they sink and are buried in the mud. It’s a weird world where these trees grow. There are dinosaurs, even some tiny pterodactyls. The real giants, though, are the crocodiles. They’re even bigger than the dinosaurs! A monster amphibian lives in the river, too. It looks like no amphibian you’ve ever seen. This is one scary animal. A predator, it resembles a dinosaur, is as big as a dinosaur, too, but stocky. The bones of all these creatures have been found in the Petrified Forest.Over time, the trees are buried deeper and deeper. The world goes through changes, and volcanic ash inundates the land that once supported a tropical forest. Water, loaded with dissolved silica and minerals from the volcanic ash, seeps down and replaces the wood with the silica and minerals. The trees are turned to stone. Time and erosion brought this ancient landscape back to light. Logs, rainbow remnants of an ancient age, litter the land. Petrified wood is not the only color found here. These jewels are set against a background of beautiful badlands and banded buttes. Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona The National Park includes part of Arizona’s Painted Desert. As I walk out over the land, or look closer at the petrified wood, it reminds me of the subtle hues of a Navajo weaving. It’s easy to see where their designs originated.

Agate House

Before the Navajo, this was the home of Ancestral Puebloans. Their traces remain throughout the park. One of the most popular trails leads to Agate House, a ruin built with petrified wood.I know you will covet the beautiful stones, but please restrain yourself. Don’t steal from your grandchildren. Leave these lovely rocks for them to enjoy! If you just have to bring a piece home, I understand the feeling. But there are better options. You can buy petrified wood found on private land just outside the park. If you want to find your own, there are places outside the park you can go. If you want a lot, talk to Patton and Sons at the rock shop just south of the park. They’ll let you collect off their property for just 50 cents a pound. There’s a 25 pound minimum. If you want just a little, look on Silver Creek south of Holbrook. For more ideas, check out Bessie Simpson and James R. Mitchell’s Gem Trails of Arizona.

Come to the Petrified Forest and enjoy the colors!

Please don’t steal from your grandchildren. Leave these rocks in the national park.

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The View from My Front Porch – A Blast from the Past

When I was 16 I ran away from home. I wasn’t mad at Mom & Dad or anything, it’s just the whole country was on the move and I didn’t want to miss out. My first big adventure.

In the course of this adventure, I ended up hopping a freight in New Mexico, with 3 guys and 2 dogs. It was a rough ride, a constant struggle not to bounce out the open boxcar as the train jostled down the track. My friends went to sleep, but I spent all night watching lightning play over the mesas as we traveled along.

We jumped off the train at sunrise, and stumbled into a surreal landscape. We wandered through a circle of weird fake ticky tacky teepees. Teepees in the desert? That’s just not right!  Where the Hell is this? We walked up to a neighboring gas station and asked. The old guy working there looked at us a little strange and said, “Holbrook, Arizona.

My wigwam

The ticky tacky teepees are still there. Wigwam Village is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Built in 1950, it’s a slice of historic Route 66. Classic cars are parked in front of each “wigwam”.  It’s still a working motel.

Well, of course, I had to stay there, for old times’ sake. There are cheaper places in Holbrook to stay. There definitely are fancier places. But there’s nowhere with more character.

Inside the teepee

Why stay here? Holbrook is the closest town to Petrified Forest National Park. If you are a nostalgia fan, get your kicks on Route 66. Stay at the Wigwam Village in Holbrook.

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The Bear’s Ears

Theodore Roosevelt created the Antiquities Act specifically to protect Mesa Verde and other ancient Puebloan ruins. Some of this country’s most precious cultural resources, they were being pillaged and destroyed by pothunters, way back in 1906.

Roosevelt, a Republican, was a true conservative, unlike many of the people who go by that appellation these days. He believed in CONSERVING our natural and cultural resources so that all Americans could enjoy them, not just a few people who wished to profit by taking from these lands.

One of the greatest tools ever created to protect our national heritage, Presidents have safeguarded national treasures by using the Antiquities Act countless times since. President Obama used it to create the Bear’s Ears National Monument shortly before leaving office.

A coalition of five Native American tribes recommended and promoted this new National Monument. They consider this land sacred. It is one of my favorite places in Utah.

This area is exactly the kind of place the Antiquities Act was created to protect. Cedar Mesa alone has over 56,000 archeological sites. That’s right, 56 THOUSAND! That’s more than any other National Park or Monument already in existence. And that’s only one part of the Bear’s Ears. As you hike these canyons, you walk with the ghosts of those who have been there before us, Everywhere you look you find ruins, petroglyphs and pictographs. It’s where I learned to love the Colorado Plateau.

This new monument is under attack. The Utah Legislature is on the fast track to try to convince Washington to find a way to overturn the proclamation.  We need to fight to keep this sacred place safe.

I would show you more pretty pictures to convince you, but the Coalition of tribes that promoted saving the Bear’s Ears can show it better than I. So check out their site, http://bearsearscoalition.org. Help defend this precious land.

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The Colorado Plateau

La Sal Mountains

I love my home in Alaska, but there ARE a few things I miss about the Lower 48. Of course I miss family and old friends. I miss hummingbirds. I miss thunderstorms. Living in the Rockies, I had them three times a day. In McCarthy, it’s more like three times a summer. But what I miss the most is the Colorado Plateau.

The Colorado Plateau is where the mountains meet the desert. It’s the best of both worlds. When I worked ski resorts, I used to spend a month here every spring.   Camping on the Colorado PlateauIt’s a magic place. There’s a reason why the Colorado Plateau has the highest concentration of parklands in North America. Ten national parks, eighteen national monuments, and all sorts of state parks and national recreation areas, too.

Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah
Kodachrome Basin State Park, Utah

Geologically, the Colorado Plateau is an island of stability surrounded by chaos. A single intact tectonic block, it has survived relatively untouched by the dramatic episodes of mountain building taking place to the east or the stretching and tectonic events of the Basin & Range Province to the west. Erosion is the main force shaping this landscape.

Circle Cliffs, Capital Reef N.P. Hiking or floating through the convoluted canyons will reward you with spectacular scenery, slickrock hoodoos, secret slots and hidden arches. You never know what you’ll find around the next bend.

Wilson Arch
Wilson Arch

You can travel through deep time, finding remnants of past worlds in the layered rock. Dinosaur tracks and bones. Ancient forests turned to stone. And, oh, the colors!

This is a sacred land. You will find traces of those who lived here before us. Petroglyphs, pictographs, and ruins from Ancient Puebloan cultures abound. Many Native Americans still call this place home.

Petroglyphs, Dinosaur National Monument
Petroglyphs, Dinosaur National Monument

Walk out into the night. You will experience some of the darkest skies on the continent.

I’m just passing through this time around. But I will be back – to one of my favorite places in the world, the Colorado Plateau.

The View from my Front Porch

Mt. Donaho & Stairway Icefall

We all have our priorities in life. Words and actions that guide us on our path. Maybe it’s family, first and forever. Maybe it’s work hard so you can retire by the time you’re 50. Well, I’ve never been especially ambitious. Although I love a lot of people deeply,  I’m basically footloose and fancy free, with no super close emotional ties. So my priority is a little different. From early on, I vowed that the best way to keep my soul alive was to wake in beauty every day.

Bonanza Ridge
Bonanza Ridge

I’ve tried to be true to my vow. I’ve lived in a lot of beautiful places – from the Florida Keys to the Rockies to Hawaii and of course, Alaska. I had the great good fortune to discover, many long years ago, one of the most beautiful places on the planet – McCarthy, Alaska. This has been my home for a long time, and I wake in beauty every day there, as you can see. I took all these pictures one day from my front porch!

I’ve spent winters in McCarthy, winters filled with a peace and solitude few ever experience. But we don’t call it the “do it the hard way club” for nothing. And my half-finished house is not really ready to stay in during the deep cold of a winter in the Alaskan bush. Besides, there are just too many beautiful places in the world to spend all your time in just one, no matter how incredible that place is. Too many ecosystems I haven’t experienced.  Life is short and there’s so much to see!

Porphyry Mountain

So, this winter I’ll be taking an extended road trip. In the coming weeks the view from my front porch will change, as I travel through the West before heading back up North, following the flowers from the desert to the coast.

Fireweed Mountain
Fireweed Mountain

As the view changes and evolves, so will my blog. I will have updates on the wildflowers, of course, but I’ll try to keep things interesting by mixing it up a bit. I’ll share my passion for our public lands as I discover new places. Look for vignettes of quirky, off-the-wall destinations, interesting tidbits about the natural world, lots of pretty pictures, and maybe even a little history now and then.

my favorite view
my favorite view

Join me on my travels by staying tuned to this blog. Follow my posts and share them with your friends. Walk in beauty with me always, I would love the company!

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2017 Desert Wildflower Forecast

Desert Gold (Geraea canescens) & Telescope Peak

 

You were lucky indeed if you got to see the 2016 Death Valley superbloom last spring. Alas, superblooms are rare. You need just the right conditions – a flash flood in the fall to wear away protective coverings on the seeds, followed by enough gentle winter rains to keep the sprouts alive. Unfortunately, this year is not a superbloom year.

But just because it’s not a superbloom does not mean there won’t be a bloom! It’s been raining in the desert and I’m here to tell you where the best spots to look for flowers will be this spring!

Death Valley National Park

This year things are looking pretty dry in Death Valley. Furnace Creek has received less than half it’s annual average for this time of year. That’s less than 15% of the precip that fell last year. To top it off, Artist’s Drive is closed for repairs until the middle of March.

Desert Five Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia)
Desert Five Spot (Eremalche rotundifolia)

It’s not all grim, though. Death Valley is a really big place, the largest national park outside of Alaska. With all the different mountain ranges and valleys, there are generally some places with good flowers in the park! It has been raining  hard in the southern end of the park over the weekend, so that may be a good area to start looking.

Don’t expect carpets here this year, though. Learn to appreciate the perfection of each individual flower, instead.

 

Mojave National Preserve
Notchleaf Phacelia (Phacelia crenulata)
Notchleaf Phacelia (Phacelia crenulata)

The good news is, the farther south you go this year, the better the rainfall! Mojave had a really big storm (1.4″ of rain) on Christmas, and enough rain since then to keep things going. You should find some lovely flowers here in about a month.

Western Mojave near Barstow
Gravel Ghost (Atrichoseris platyphylla)
Gravel Ghost (Atrichoseris platyphylla)

This area is doing a little bit better than usual for precipitation. There should be a few nice displays.

 

Joshua Tree National Park
Golden Evening Primrose (Camissonia brevipes), Notchleaf Phacelia (Phacelia crenulata), and Rock Daisies (Perityle emoryi)
Golden Evening Primrose (Camissonia brevipes), Notchleaf Phacelia (Phacelia crenulata), and Rock Daisies (Perityle emoryi)

Several roads have been closed in recent weeks in Joshua Tree due to storms. It’s been raining for most of the past week.  The park is well above average in rainfall this year.

Some flowers are already blooming, although not many. Bladderpod (not sure which species) and Filaree (Erodium cicutarium) have been seen.

Anza Borrego County Park
(Opuntia basilaris)
Beavertail Cactus (Opuntia basilaris)

I predict great things for Anza Borrego this year. They have had more than double their average annual precipitation. I think this very well may be the best place in southern California to look for desert wildflowers this year.

Desert Gold Poppies (Eschscholzia glyptosperma)
Desert Gold Poppies (Eschscholzia glyptosperma)

So that’s what it looks like so far. Keep hoping for rain, the more moisture the better the bloom!

Have you been out in the Arizona or California desert lately? What have you seen? Let us know! Leave a comment! Follow this blog for future updates on the 2017 desert bloom.

Desert Gold (Geraea canescens) in Death Valley, 2016
Desert Gold (Geraea canescens) in Death Valley, 2016

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