Spring!

Spring in Alaska

What does spring mean to me? That’s the question posed by Sofia of Photographias in this week’s Lens-Artists Photography Challenge. For me, spring equals two things:  road tripping and wildflowers.

Anza Borrego State Park
Ajo Lilies in Anza Borrego State Park

This way of celebrating spring started for me when I used to work winters as a ranger in Death Valley National Park. There, I fell in love with the desert spring bloom. You would not think a land that averaged less than 2 inches of rain a year would have many wildflowers. Surprisingly though, in more years than not, it does.  Due to the great diversity of landscapes and elevations, even in a dry year you can find some wildflowers somewhere.

Death Valley Wildflowers
Wildflowers in Death Valley’s Saline Valley

It can be one of the most astounding natural events you’ll ever witness in a good year. During a Superbloom, the flowers start in January and just keep coming. Dry, rocky, barren land is suddenly completely carpeted with color. The variety is phenomenal. They are so thick on the ground that you can hardly take a step without crushing a half dozen blooms. Once I saw a real superbloom, I never wanted to miss another.

Spring wildflowers Joshua Tree National Park
Superbloom in Joshua Tree

So I started following the bloom. I would spend a lot of time in February and March traveling between my two favorite desert wildflower spots, Death Valley and Anza-Borrego State Park, and spending a few days at Joshua Tree National Park along the way.

Spring wildflowers Carrizo Plain National Monument
The wildflowers should be amazing in Carrizo Plain by mid-April.

Slowly starting my trip back home to Alaska in early April, I would try to visit Carrizo Plain National Monument. In a good year, this is the best place ever to see wildflowers. Despite the hype that is out there, this year is not a superbloom year. For that, you need a good soaker storm in the fall to get the seeds going. California did not receive all that rain until January. Carrizo Plain is starting to get some color but no big displays yet.  I think it could be fantastic in a couple more weeks, though, as more and more flowers germinated in January bloom.

Sierra Nevada spring wildflowers
Wildflowers could be incredible in the Sierra Nevada foothills, too.

Traveling north, I edge along the western foothills of the Sierra and make a fly-by visit to Yosemite’s waterfalls, another spring phenomenon.  I think the Sierra foothills are where the real superbloom will happen this spring.

Redwoods National Park
Redwood Sorrel

I would continue north through the Redwood Sorrel and Trilliums of northern California to my last big spring wildflower extravaganza, in the Siskiyou Mountains of southern Oregon. Since there were very few wildflowers blooming further north, I would beeline home from there, going back into winter along the way.

Spring wildflowers Siskiyou Mountains
Arrowleaf Balsamroot in the Siskiyou Mountains

This year is a little different. I have spent the entire winter in one spot, northern Washington’s Orcas Island. I’ve kept my carbon footprint low, only using two tanks of gas through the entire winter.

Red Warrior
Red Warrior

But that’s about to change. Although there are domestic flowers beginning to bloom here now –  crocuses, hellebore, fruit trees – there are no wildflowers. As I said last week, domestic flowers don’t thrill me. I need a wildflower fix before I head back into winter.

Fawn Lily
Fawn Lily

So starting April 2, I’m road tripping down to the closest place where I can see good wildflowers, the Siskiyous in southern Oregon. I’m in love with the trees of that region also, so I am really looking forward to it. I’ll visit a few friends and a few beaches along the way down, too.

Spring wildflowers
Shooting Stars

When I start heading home from there, I may detour into the southern Cascades for a day or two in search of mossy waterfalls to photograph. It all depends on how far spring has progressed by then.

Spring waterfall
I’ll be looking for waterfalls, too.

As I move north of the border, it’s time to start looking for spring wildlife instead of spring flowers. If I take the AlCan Highway, I may be rewarded by sightings of Woodland Caribou and the rare Stone Sheep. I will certainly see Wood Bison on that route. If I take the Cassiar, I will probably catch a glimpse of a bear or two.

Stone Sheep in Muncho Lake Provincial Park
Stone Sheep

By the time I reach the Yukon, I will have traveled back into winter. Well, it will look a bit like winter anyhow. Actually, it will be that in-between season, known in the Northland as Breakup.

Kluane National Park
It’s still winter in the Yukon in April.

Breakup is a rough time to try to travel off the paved roads. The snow is soft and soggy and will collapse and suck you in.  It’s slick and icy in the morning from all the melted water. Wherever it’s not snowy, it’s muddy. The rivers, no longer frozen, are running full, and full of ice. Springtime in Alaska.

Kluane Lake
But there are signs of Breakup.

There’s a third thing spring means to me. Home. It won’t be long before I’m home, back in McCarthy, trying to figure out how to negotiate the lake in my ATV trail and the downed trees on my walking path. But that’s another story for another time. Right now it’s spring!

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Home Sweet Home!

(Wishing For) The Colors of April

Bear Poppies

April is not a very colorful month in Alaska. It’s Breakup, that weird season in between winter and spring, and frankly, breakup is messy and not so attractive. Morning ice skating rinks give way to afternoon mud bogs and slush piles . Sloppy, sloppy, sloppy. Postholing through the unevenly melting snowpack is tiring and tedious. The predominant colors are brown, gray, white, and dead grass yellow. The only pastel is the sky on the occasional sunny day when it’s not raining, sleeting or snowing.

April in Alaska is not very colorful.

Even so, we’re all celebrating. The thermometer actually rises above freezing and soon, soon, soon the snow will be gone and summer will be here. Already the days are long and the twilight lingers.

California Poppies
I miss color.

But I miss color. I miss my wildflowers. Although I’ve spent a lot of winters in Alaska in the past, for over a dozen years I’ve been snowbirding it, heading south to the desert or the West Coast for the winter. It’s a lifestyle I love.

Briceberg River Road
My favorite Sierra campground along the Merced River.

Last year at this time I was in lockdown in Las Vegas, one of the most surreal  experiences of my life. The colors of April, found in the wastelands on the outskirts of town, were my salvation during this insane interlude.

Most years, though, I spend the month of March immersed in the wildflowers of the California desert. Then as the flowers move up in elevation in April, I follow along, chasing the bloom.

April is also the month that the cactus are in bloom.

By the middle of the month, heat and wind begin to take their toll on the flowers, and on me. It’s time to go North, time to go home, following the flowers.

Heat and wind are hard on the flowers.

My new favorite place to begin this journey is Carrizo Plain National Monument. The flowers grow thicker here than anywhere else I’ve ever been. It’s something to ponder, that the entire Central Valley once looked like this.

Carrizo Plains National Monument
Camping in Carrizo

From there I move on, hopscotching my way along the Sierra’s western foothills, following the path of the Gold Rush on the trail of Highway 49, with a drive through the Yosemite valley along the way.

I’ll head west to the redwoods in Mendocino County and enjoy that other color of April, green, for a day or two on my way to Oregon.

Deep in the redwood forest

I might visit friends in southern Oregon in the Grant’s Pass area, an April  wildflower delight indeed.

From there, time and flowers are both getting scarce. I’ve still got a few days to enjoy the coast on my way to Canada. It’s breakup in Canada, too, though, so I bomb through and reach Alaska right at the end of April – just in time for the first Pasque flowers of the season.

Pasque Flower

Thank you, Amy for this week’s Lens-Artist’s Photo Challenge – the Colors of April. You’ve made me really miss my spring flowers!

Filling the Frame – Lens-Artists Photo Challenge #66

Tidy Tips fill the frame in Carrizo Plain National Monument

Thanks, Patti, for bringing us this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge. Filling the frame is such an important photographic concept. I would like to use a few images from last spring’s desert wildflower bloom to illustrate my take on filling the frame.

Sometimes you may find that just documenting a scene or an object falls flat and doesn’t really capture the essence of your subject, as in this image of a yucca plant in bloom.

Yucca in bloom, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA

Moving in closer may be one way to capture that essence.

Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA

Think about what is in your frame. Is it all necessary to express what you want to convey with the image?

The cactus flowers are beautiful, but do I really need that white rock in the photo? Isn’t it kind of distracting?

What do you find most compelling about the object/scene? For me, it was the silky translucency of the pink petals and the way the color blended into the beautiful brown shade at the center of the flower. I was also intrigued by the complexity revealed in the heart of the bloom.

Pineapple Cactus flower, Joshua Tree National Park

When photographing wildlife, we might quickly grab an “insurance” shot in our excitement at seeing the animal. The result is often less than memorable.

Butterfly on Sand Verbena, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Boring!

Filling the frame will often make a much more compelling image. However, we should get closer and fill the frame by using a longer focal length. As I mentioned in last week’s post, we need to respect the animal’s comfort zone. Our actions should never change an animal’s behavior.

Butterfly on Sand Verbena, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Better!

Filling the frame does not necessarily mean moving in closer. It means being aware of every element in the composition. It means watching the edges of the photo and making sure everything included is there for a reason.

Carrizo Plain National Monument

Filling the frame is a great rule of thumb, but as with most rules, the beauty of knowing the rules is knowing when it’s OK to break them. Think of your essential questions when composing the image. What are you trying to convey? What is essential to conveying it?

For instance, when I saw this Ajo Lily growing straight out of the rock I was struck by the barrenness of its surroundings. How tough and resilient a flower must be, to blossom straight out of a rock! Including the surrounding sandstone was essential to the meaning of this image. A close-up of the flower, although beautiful, would not convey those deeper meanings.

Ajo Lily, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
A flower with the resilience to overcome a hostile environment

Most of the time, though, it’s a good thing to remember – for more exciting images, try filling the frame!

Near Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve

Carrizo Plain

travel writing and photography

If you follow desert wildflowers, you NEED to visit Carrizo Plain National Monument in April. This is the land that wildflower dreams are made of.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
The view from my campsite

Although not technically in the desert, Carrizo Plains is just over the hills from the western Mojave.  It’s a great place to stop if you are traveling between the desert wildflowers and the California coast.

It’s not necessarily an easy place to visit, though. All the roads in the national monument are dirt. They are rough, often washboard,  and if it rains, forget it. Then the roads become impassable, a morass of mud. It is about 50 miles from one end of the monument to the other. No matter how you cut it, it’s a lot of dirt road back road. High clearance vehicles are highly recommended.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Carrizo Plain National Monument

It’s worth the extra effort. Huge swaths of color paint the rolling hills surrounding you.  You step out into sweeping fields of flowers, like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz, lost in the poppies. It looks like a monoculture until you get out of the car, and walk. Then you find other rare beauties hiding in plain sight.

The most striking sensation though is the smell. The delicate fragrance of these endless fields of flowers is one of the most delightful scents I’ve ever experienced.

Wildflower Closeup
Owl’s Clover

Camping here at night is incredibly peaceful. Greeting a dawn filled with color on both land and sky, then watching the sun slowly light up the blossoms is an amazing way to start the day.

Carrizo Plain is in California’s great Central Valley. The land was once a tapestry of native plants and grasses, home to pronghorn antelope and kit foxes.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Lupine on the Simmler Road

Now the entire Central Valley is filled with oil fields and BigAg. There is not much left of the original ecosystem. At 246,812 acres, Carrizo Plain is the largest remaining piece of native grassland.

In 1988 the Nature Conservancy began to purchase the land. President Clinton declared the area a National Monument in 2001. It is now managed through a partnership of the Nature Conservancy,  the BLM and California Department of Fish and Game.

Wildflower Bouquet
Coreopsis and Phacelia

As the last remnant of a once vast savannah, Carrizo Plain is home to more endangered species than any other place in California. Residents include the San Joaquin Kit Fox, the Giant Kangaroo Rat, and the California Condor.

Carrizo Plain is a special treat for birders. Not only are there condors, but this is also the largest protected habitat left on the Pacific Flyway.

Endless fields of flowers
Tidy Tips

Carrizo Plain is on the San Andreas Fault and is one of the easiest places around to see the geologic change wrought by the fault. Check out the offset shutter ridges in the Temblor Range or take a walk up Wallace Creek to witness those changes.

The monument is rich in cultural sites, too. Although badly damaged by vandals, 4,000-year-old pictographs are found at Painted Rock. Painted Rock is a National Historic Landmark and sacred to many Californian Native American tribes.

Wildflower Bouquet
Tidy Tips and Phacelia

The Wilderness Society even wanted to nominate Carrizo Plain as a World Heritage Site. Local opposition, though, defeated that effort.

Although the Carrizo Plain has many fine features, the flowers remain the main draw. Words cannot express. They are unbelievable.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Checkered Fiddleneck

I really, really, really wanted to stay and camp one more day, but my little truck had other ideas. I reached the northern boundary and turned around to hit 50 more miles of dirt road back road. Within 5 miles the “check engine” light went on.

I didn’t want to turn back. I continued on a couple more miles. I really, really wanted to stay. Then common sense kicked in. With 45 or so miles of rough road ahead, it was no place to get stuck with car trouble. My AAA tow insurance won’t go there. I had to turn back to pavement and say good-bye to Carrizo.

Wildflower bouquet
Owl’s Clover & Goldfields

As soon as I made it back to civilization and access to a mechanic in Santa Maria, the check engine light went off. The little girl didn’t break down, she was just telling me she was tired of the rough stuff and done with dirt road back road for a while. I’m relieved, but I look forward to next April and the delightful display of wildflowers sure to be found in Carrizo Plain.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
This could be you if you visit Carrizo Plain!