Spring!

Spring in Alaska

What does spring mean to me? That’s the question posed by Sofia of Photographias in this week’s Lens-Artists Photography Challenge. For me, spring equals two things:  road tripping and wildflowers.

Anza Borrego State Park
Ajo Lilies in Anza Borrego State Park

This way of celebrating spring started for me when I used to work winters as a ranger in Death Valley National Park. There, I fell in love with the desert spring bloom. You would not think a land that averaged less than 2 inches of rain a year would have many wildflowers. Surprisingly though, in more years than not, it does.  Due to the great diversity of landscapes and elevations, even in a dry year you can find some wildflowers somewhere.

Death Valley Wildflowers
Wildflowers in Death Valley’s Saline Valley

It can be one of the most astounding natural events you’ll ever witness in a good year. During a Superbloom, the flowers start in January and just keep coming. Dry, rocky, barren land is suddenly completely carpeted with color. The variety is phenomenal. They are so thick on the ground that you can hardly take a step without crushing a half dozen blooms. Once I saw a real superbloom, I never wanted to miss another.

Spring wildflowers Joshua Tree National Park
Superbloom in Joshua Tree

So I started following the bloom. I would spend a lot of time in February and March traveling between my two favorite desert wildflower spots, Death Valley and Anza-Borrego State Park, and spending a few days at Joshua Tree National Park along the way.

Spring wildflowers Carrizo Plain National Monument
The wildflowers should be amazing in Carrizo Plain by mid-April.

Slowly starting my trip back home to Alaska in early April, I would try to visit Carrizo Plain National Monument. In a good year, this is the best place ever to see wildflowers. Despite the hype that is out there, this year is not a superbloom year. For that, you need a good soaker storm in the fall to get the seeds going. California did not receive all that rain until January. Carrizo Plain is starting to get some color but no big displays yet.  I think it could be fantastic in a couple more weeks, though, as more and more flowers germinated in January bloom.

Sierra Nevada spring wildflowers
Wildflowers could be incredible in the Sierra Nevada foothills, too.

Traveling north, I edge along the western foothills of the Sierra and make a fly-by visit to Yosemite’s waterfalls, another spring phenomenon.  I think the Sierra foothills are where the real superbloom will happen this spring.

Redwoods National Park
Redwood Sorrel

I would continue north through the Redwood Sorrel and Trilliums of northern California to my last big spring wildflower extravaganza, in the Siskiyou Mountains of southern Oregon. Since there were very few wildflowers blooming further north, I would beeline home from there, going back into winter along the way.

Spring wildflowers Siskiyou Mountains
Arrowleaf Balsamroot in the Siskiyou Mountains

This year is a little different. I have spent the entire winter in one spot, northern Washington’s Orcas Island. I’ve kept my carbon footprint low, only using two tanks of gas through the entire winter.

Red Warrior
Red Warrior

But that’s about to change. Although there are domestic flowers beginning to bloom here now –  crocuses, hellebore, fruit trees – there are no wildflowers. As I said last week, domestic flowers don’t thrill me. I need a wildflower fix before I head back into winter.

Fawn Lily
Fawn Lily

So starting April 2, I’m road tripping down to the closest place where I can see good wildflowers, the Siskiyous in southern Oregon. I’m in love with the trees of that region also, so I am really looking forward to it. I’ll visit a few friends and a few beaches along the way down, too.

Spring wildflowers
Shooting Stars

When I start heading home from there, I may detour into the southern Cascades for a day or two in search of mossy waterfalls to photograph. It all depends on how far spring has progressed by then.

Spring waterfall
I’ll be looking for waterfalls, too.

As I move north of the border, it’s time to start looking for spring wildlife instead of spring flowers. If I take the AlCan Highway, I may be rewarded by sightings of Woodland Caribou and the rare Stone Sheep. I will certainly see Wood Bison on that route. If I take the Cassiar, I will probably catch a glimpse of a bear or two.

Stone Sheep in Muncho Lake Provincial Park
Stone Sheep

By the time I reach the Yukon, I will have traveled back into winter. Well, it will look a bit like winter anyhow. Actually, it will be that in-between season, known in the Northland as Breakup.

Kluane National Park
It’s still winter in the Yukon in April.

Breakup is a rough time to try to travel off the paved roads. The snow is soft and soggy and will collapse and suck you in.  It’s slick and icy in the morning from all the melted water. Wherever it’s not snowy, it’s muddy. The rivers, no longer frozen, are running full, and full of ice. Springtime in Alaska.

Kluane Lake
But there are signs of Breakup.

There’s a third thing spring means to me. Home. It won’t be long before I’m home, back in McCarthy, trying to figure out how to negotiate the lake in my ATV trail and the downed trees on my walking path. But that’s another story for another time. Right now it’s spring!

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Home Sweet Home!

Kluane Lake Changes

I dropped this blog rather abruptly in April when my ranger job started back up. Living remote like I do, I had limited internet access. But my job ended Friday, and this ranger is rambling again. Follow my journey as I head south.

Traveling down the Al-Can Highway through Canada, one of my favorite parts of the drive is skirting the edge of Kluane National Park in the Yukon. Kluane is our sister park. Mt. St. Elias, the 2nd tallest peak in both Canada and the U.S., is shared by both Wrangell St. Elias and Kluane. They’re both part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the largest protected areas in the world.

Kluane Range

But you don’t really see the most spectacular part of Kluane from the road. The really BIG mountains and glaciers are hidden by the Kluane Ranges. What you DO see is Dall’s Sheep and beautiful scenery as the road is sandwiched between the mountains and Kluane Lake.

The highway runs next to Kluane Lake for about 40 miles. It’s a big lake. In fact, it’s the biggest lake situated entirely in the Yukon.

Kluane Lake

But the lake is changing, getting smaller. The Slims River, THE major river feeding the lake, has disappeared, a consequence of climate change.

The Slims River used to run about 12 miles from the Kaskawalsh Glacier to Kluane Lake. However, the glacier has retreated about half a mile, and something called stream capture has taken place. Now all the melt from the glacier flows into the Kaskawalsh River, eventually emptying out into the Gulf of Alaska. The Slims River is no more.

All that’s left of the Slims River is this pool in the foreground.

This signals big changes for Kluane Lake and the surrounding ecosystem. Scientists estimate the lake level will drop a meter or two, affecting fish populations. Until vegetation gains a substantial foothold, the land near the southwest corner of the lake will be subject to substantial dust storms. Eventually, though new growth will fill in, possibly creating grasslands and meadows at first, bringing in a host of different plants and animals.

This isn’t the first time the area has seen dramatic changes. Like Wrangell-St. Elias, Kluane is a young, dynamic landscape, constantly evolving. About 350 years ago, the Slims River ran in the opposite direction, draining Kluane Lake into the Gulf of Alaska.

Will this dry lakebed become a meadow?

At that time, the glacier was growing, and a lobe dammed the Slims. This caused the lake level to rise about 40 feet. The lake waters cut a new outlet, going north – what is now the Kluane River.
What will the future bring? Will we be able to watch grizzlies dig for roots in the former lakebed within a few years? It’s possible! I look forward to experiencing the changes as I head up and down the AlCan each year.