Beachcombing – Some Treasures Are Ephemeral

The beach at Cape Lookout State Park, OR
Beach at Cape Lookout, Oregon
I’m not the only one walking the beach.

When most people think of beachcombing, they think of bringing home treasures. Intriguing seashells, sand dollars, beautifully sculpted bits of driftwood – if you’re lucky maybe even a glass fishing float. There are beaches  that hold precious stones – polished agates and moonstones, sometimes even fossils.  With a little creativity, you might craft your finds to bring beauty to your home . They serve as mementos of special places and times.

Mementos, memories… I’ve done some memorable beachcombing for which all I have to show are memories. I spent a couple of winters in the Miami Vice days of the early 80’s in the Florida Keys. There was a different kind of treasure washing up on the beaches in those days. Sometimes you would walk the beach and find the wrack line cluttered with jettisoned cannabis. No wonder we wore t-shirts reading Save the Bales!

Crab and beach detritus at Cape lookout State Park, Oregon
What IS that weird thing under the crab’s right claw?

Four hippies from Colorado camping on the coral coast, we found our tent stakes wouldn’t pierce the rocky shore. Since we couldn’t pitch the tent, we requisitioned the shell of a shack demolished by a hurricane. We built a thatched roof over our sleeping bags Robinson Crusoe style, and stuck a mangrove branch in a buoy as a Christmas tree. For ornaments, we searched for shells. By the next morning most of  our ornaments, the unexpected homes of hermit crabs, had scurried away.

Cape Lookout State Park, OR
A little sponge – I think…

It’s not just about collecting. It’s about observing. Sometimes the best treasure is a tiny glimpse of that weird and wonderful alien world under the sea. I went beachcombing at Cape Lookout State Park in Oregon recently. This is one of my favorite beaches for finding treasures, especially after a storm moves through. This time, though, I didn’t take anything home but pictures – and questions about the strange debris showing up on the shoreline.

Cape Lookout State Park, Oregon
Sea Star and Mermaid’s Purse

I find a purple starfish and fling it back into the ocean, hoping it’s not already dead and has a second chance. The Pacific needs all the starfish it can get these days.

As I wander, I watch a seal fishing the surf about 100 yards offshore. All I can see is his head popping up through the waves, then down again. Birds are everywhere, gulls and crows scavenging for whatever the latest high tide has brought in. Crab for breakfast, anyone?

Cape Lookout State Park, OR
Crab for breakfast for Mr. Crow

It looks like carnage, some horrible massacre. Crab shells and appendages are by far the most common item in the wrack. It’s not as bad as it looks, though. Crabs tend to get too big for their britches and have to shed their shells and grow a new one. Most of the carapaces I see are castoffs. If a crab does tumble in with the tide, though, chances of running the gauntlet of shorebirds back to safety in the water are thin.

Cape Lookout State park, Oregon
Corallina

The delicate pastel fronds of a tiny seaweed catch my eye. It reminds me of sea fans seen while snorkeling the coral reef in Florida. Its name, corallina,  indicates I am not the only one who recognizes the resemblance. A little farther along is a tiny bit of sponge – I think. Or is it another seaweed?

Then I stumble onto something really bizarre. What ARE those weird white wormy things? Appendages to some strange jellyfish type animal? It’s so peculiar I just have to find out more. I stop in at the Interpretive Center at Yaquina Head.

Pyrosomes, Cape Lookout State Park
Strange fact: These weird white wormy things (pyrosomes) glow in the dark!

This is one of the most popular tidepooling areas in Oregon and even THEY don’t know what these creatures are. We look through the field guides and ponder. A man working in the back overhears our conversation. “Oh, I know!”, he says, and pulls up an article on the computer.

They’re called pyrosomes. Like coral, each one is actually a little colony of organisms. They’re another indicator of climate change.

Sea Star & Mermaid's Purse on an endless beach
Cape Lookout State Park, OR

They usually live in warmer waters, something you might find in the seas off the coast of Southern California. They were exceedingly rare in Oregon. Not anymore.

They probably came up in a big mass of warm water that hit the Pacific Northwest during the El Nino in the spring of 2016. Last spring there was another big “bloom” of the creatures. There were so many that scientists were able to scoop up 60,000 of them in just one 5 minute tow of the net.

They caused a lot of problems for local fishermen, clogging up and damaging their nets. They may be causing big changes in the food chain, too. They eat plankton. So do copepods, tiny creatures that form the base of the food chain in Pacific Northwest oceans. It’s too soon to tell if this will prove a problem for the copepod population.

Cape lookout state Park. OR
The wrack line

Some fish find them tasty.  It seems that rockfish, who normally eat copepods, seem to prefer pyrosomes to copepods. There’s just one problem. Copepods provide a lot of fat for the rockfish. Pyrosomes don’t. It’s not like they actually harm the rockfish, but the fish don’t grow as big. Rockfish, in turn, are eaten by salmon. It’s all connected.

Strange sea animals are not all you find as you walk along the wrack line. You also find a lot of trash. Shortly after the Japanese tsunami, I found a perfectly good soup ladle. I was excited about taking it home and using it, a souvenir with a purpose, until I thought about that leaking nuclear power plant…..

Sunset at Cape Lookout
Cape Lookout

A lot of that trash is microplastics, teeny colorful bits and pieces that attract fish and birds. They think it’s some new kind of food. It has less nutritional value than the pyrosomes! In fact, it’s quite harmful and can eventually kill them. The Haystack Rock Awareness Program in Cannon Beach, OR is turning that trash into treasure. They combine the bright and shiny colors, encase them in resin, and make mosaics and jewelry to help raise awareness about the health of our oceans.

It’s nice to walk the beach, white worms and all, in the quiet of an early morning before the clamoring hordes arrive. Next time you’re on the coast, spark your curiosity. Get up early and walk the beach at sunrise. Follow the tide line. You never know what treasures you may find!

Sunset at Cape Lookout
Sunset at Cape Lookout

Olympic Beaches

Olympic National Park

Hiking the Pacific coast in Olympic National Park has long been on my bucket list. I’ve dreamed of this hike. Olympic National Park protects over 73 miles of coastline. About two-thirds of those miles are wilderness.

I’ve done a lot of backpacking in my time but I have never done the endless beach walk. What an epic experience that would be! It rates very high on that bucket list. I’m not asking for the whole 73 miles. I would be happy to just spend three days.

Beach 4, Olympic National Park, Washington
The Olympic coast is a very foggy place.

Think of it.  Dark forests of old growth Sitka spruce, cedar, hemlock and maple, dripping with moss and ferns. Rocky outcroppings  harboring tidal pools of colorful sea stars and anemones. Arches and sea stacks sculpted by the waves. Discovering treasures as you beachcomb your way down miles of black sand beaches.  Mazes of driftwood providing shelter from the wind and warm campfires.  Mighty waves roaring and crashing. Amazing sunsets. But lots of fog – and rain.

Beach 3, Olypic National Park
Sculpted Rocks and Driftwood

Well, it didn’t happen this time. There were lots of reasons. It’s a trip I would want to do with a companion and I was traveling solo. I didn’t have appropriate gear. The tides were timed wrong, with low tide coming just before sunrise and just after sunset when I was there. It was pouring down buckets of rain as often as not. I didn’t have the permits. What it all comes down to is that this is a hike that takes some planning.

Beach 3, Olympic National Park
Beach 3, Olympic National Park

It;s not an easy hike. There are lots of hazards. It’s not all sandy beach. There are stretches of ankle-twisting cobbles that can be ridiculously slippery in the rain. Sneaker waves can take you away. If the ocean isn’t successful in carrying you off with a sneaker wave, it might retaliate by tossing trees at you. Yeah, really. Big trees. You have to be on the lookout for bears and mountain lions when traversing the rain forest on the headlands.

Sometimes you have to climb these headlands where they cliff out into the sea. There are 7 impassible headlands where you must go overland. These paths are steep and slippery. So steep and slippery that you cannot ascend without a rope or cable anchored into place to aid you. Leather gloves are recommended to make it up and down these ropes and cables safely. The biggest hazard, though, is getting caught out by the tide. There are 23 spots that can only be crossed at low tide. You have to have a tide table and a watch, and you have to be aware.

Mora Campground
Coastal Rain Forest

You need good topo maps to point out the headlands and low tide crossings. You need good rain gear.  You should have light, flexible hiking boots instead of the heavier, stiffer boots you might use in an alpine environment. You need a bear resistant food container. You need to put everything in plastic bags to protect against the all-pervading moisture. I’d bring a sponge to mop up my tent, if I were you.

You need permits. Not only do you need a permit from the Park Service, there are 3 different Native American tribes whose lands you may cross. If you do, you will need permits and permission from them, too. You see what I mean when I say this trip takes a bit of prior research and planning!

Beach 3, Olympic National Park
Sun bursting through the fog

So I didn’t do the backpack this year. However, I did spend a little time on the coast. Call it a scouting mission. Here are my impressions of a few of the beaches in the southern half of the Olympic Coast.

Sea stacks and waves, Olympic National Park
Rialto Beach

Rialto Beach

Rialto Beach is right next to Mora Campground, one of the four campgrounds located along the coast. I like my campsite here, tucked within giant trees with a smaller young maple forming a canopy over my tent that helps to keep it a little bit drier.

This is a cobble beach, made up of flat gray stones, perfect skipping stones if it were a lake instead of a rambunctious, unruly ocean. Not the best beach for beachcombing.  It’s a gray, blustery day, not as rainy as some, just small squalls and showers that come and go.  It’s kind of chilly, but it makes for some great wave watching. The tide is coming in and it’s fun to watch the waves explode against the offshore rocks.

I watch a seagull sitting on one of these rocks. Some waves are bigger than others and he flies off his perch and hovers in the air every time a slightly bigger wave threatens to drench him. There are tidal pools  and an arch about a  mile and a half north There’s a creek to cross and the tides are wrong, and I don’t have enough time before sunset to make it there and back.  Instead, I perch on a log in a pile of driftwood and meditate, vowing to return one day when the tides are right and walk through that arch, maybe even camp near it.

Arch at Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park
Ruby Beach

Ruby Beach

Ruby Beach has an arch, too. This is my favorite beach in Olympic. Too bad so many other people love it so much, too. It’s crowded near the arch when the sun is out, but when the fog destroys all hope of a sunset shot the crowd dwindles. I avoid the crowd by walking south down the beach, away from the arch and the sea stacks.

Then I find the whale. I thought it was a rock at first. It looks more like a geological formation than a once living being. Bold black and orange stripes, layered yet twisted, the rest of the lump shapeless, the nothing greyish color of weathered rock. I’ve seen similar colors and patterns in the canyons of the Desert Southwest. There’s no head that I can discern. The only thing that looks like an animal are the flukes of its tail.

And the stench. I literally cannot breathe downwind of this creature. It is the worst thing I’ve ever smelled.

It’s not very big as whales go, about beluga size. It’s a baleen whale, the black and orange stripes are its throat sack. What kind of a whale is it?  I have no idea.

Olympic National Park
Dead Whale on Ruby Beach

Beach 3

It is so foggy this morning that I can’t even see 10 yards. It doesn’t matter, I have finally made it to a beach at low tide. Time to go tidepooling! I walk over, under, and through the rocky boulders on the point. I am deeply disappointed. There are lots of anemones. But there are no starfish.

Starfish play a big part in this dream I have of walking Olympic beaches. Since I’m a mountain girl unfamiliar with the sea, they’re rainbow-colored fantasy animals to me,  exotic and strange. I’ve seen the pictures and postcards, from Shi-Shi Beach and Beach 4. I SO want to see and photograph starfish. But I’m too late. They’re all gone.

Starfish used to be common all along the Pacific Coast, but not anymore. In 2013 an epidemic struck the starfish. It was literally a plague, wiping out up to 99% of the starfish on some beaches in a matter of weeks. The sickness took out the entire West Coast, from Mexico to Alaska. On the Washington coast mortality was about 90%. It’s called  Sea Star Wasting Syndrome. It’s pretty horrible. The starfish lose legs and start dissolving into a pile of goo, WHILE THEY”RE STILL ALIVE!

Beach 3 tide pool, Olympic National Park
Sea anemones on Beach 3

Scientists aren’t totally sure what the cause is. It’s probably a virus, but ocean warming and acidification, major consequences of climate change, seem to also play a part.  It’s happened before, but never so severe an outbreak. In some places like the Oregon Coast the epidemic seems to be over and sea stars are slowly making a comeback. Washington and British Columbia, though, are listed as this year’s hotspots for the disease.

Sea Star Wasting Syndrome doesn”t just destroy sea stars. It destroys a whole ecosystem. Some sea stars are important predators, and their favorite food is sea urchins. Sea urchins are grazing animals. They eat kelp. Kelp forests shelter an amazing number of different animals, especially juveniles. With no sea stars, the sea urchin population has skyrocketed, decimating the kelp forests. It’s all connected.

It’s not all bad news. There is a very thin ray of hope. In some localities it seems sea stars are mutating to overcome the virus. Maybe it’s just as well that I missed the tides this year. Maybe, just maybe, when I visit another time the sea stars will have found a way to survive and come back.

Olympic National Park, Kalaloch Campground
Sunset on Kalaloch Beach

Big is Beautiful

Mt. Blackburn, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska

I’ve just discovered the WordPress Lens Artist Photo Challenge. Tina Schell, whose blog is called Travels and Trifles, came up with this week’s theme, “Big is Beautiful”.

How appropriate that I found it this week, I can’t help but think, as big is beautiful has defined my life in many ways.

For one thing, I’m a big girl. I keep telling myself big is beautiful, but I don’t always believe it.

More importantly though, big is beautiful has defined my life geographically, as a rambling ranger, for many years. After all, I live in Alaska, the biggest state in the Union.

Thorofare Pass, Denali National Park
Maybe vast is a better word than big to define Alaska.

I even worked for a few years in Denali National Park, home to the biggest mountain in North America.

North face of Denali, Denali National Park
Denali

I live in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the biggest national park in the U.S. by far. It’s the size of Switzerland with Yellowstone and Yosemite thrown in.

Bonanza Ridge, Wrangell St. Elias National park
Hiking in the Wrangells

My favorite geologic feature in this fabulous park is the Stairway Icefall, one of the tallest icefalls in North America, if not the world. It rises 7,000 feet in under 2 miles.

Stairway Icefall, Wrangell St. Elias National Park
The view of Stairway Icefall from my front yard – I’m a lucky girl.

I work in the “ghost town” of Kennecott. The Kennecott Mill just may be the tallest wooden building in North America. It’s big.

Kennecott National Historic Landmark
The Kennecott Mill, is a big, TALL building

I spent 8 winters as a ranger in Death Valley National Park. At 3.2 million acres, it is the largest national park in the contiguous United States.

Black Mountains, Death Valley National Park
Don’t let the name scare you, Death Valley is big and beautiful. Just don’t go in the summer!

Currently I’m spending time in the Pacific Northwest, home to big trees.

Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park
Old Growth Maple

The place where I’m staying is only a few blocks from the Pacific Ocean, the biggest of them all!

Klaloch Beach, Olympic National Park
Pacific Ocean Sunset

Live Large! Go Big!