One of my favorite ghost towns – Gold Point, Nevada

Abandoned car in Gold Point. NV

I’m walking through another of my favorite ghost towns, Gold Point, Nevada.

There’s a truck with a face here. With headlights for eyes and a grinning grill, it’s a dead ringer for Maynard, the old tow truck in the Pixar movie, Cars. That’s right, Maynard lives here. It’s a vehicle with personality, mostly painted a faded green, a hook and crane in the back, the bald tires frayed and flat.

Abandoned truck with peronality
Maynard lives here.

The entire town of Gold Point has personality. It’s one of the best-preserved ghost towns in the country.

A cold breeze blows tumbleweeds across the street and between the buildings. I feel like I’m stepping back in time 100 years, to the lawless days of claim jumpers and cattle rustlers.

Ghost town cabins and gallows
Gold Point is well preserved but not too touristy.

There’s a soundtrack that reinforces this impression. As I pass by the saloon the faint echo of an old time western drifts on the wind. I circle the building, but there are no other signs of life. The gravelly voiced actors sound like ghosts from days gone by. After all, those ancient horse operas are based on the real-life adventures of towns just like Gold Point.

It’s not completely abandoned. There are 6 full-time residents and 6 part-time residents. But on the day I visited I saw no one.

Derelict tractor shot through window of abandoned truck
Vehicles with personality

Silver, not gold, was the strike that brought people here first. In 1868 a town called Lime Point formed when silver was found nearby. The typical challenges of a mining town in the desert plagued Lime Point, though. Lack of water and the cost of freighting almost killed the settlement, although richer diggings in 1880 kept things going for a bit longer.

Lime Point went bust, but not long after the turn of the century, prospectors located a new silver vein about a half-mile away. There was so much silver all you had to do was shovel it right up off the ground! This type of super-gene enrichment was known as hornsilver, so they named the new town Hornsilver.

Door of old fire engine
Esmeralda County was Mark Twain’s old stomping grounds

By 1905, the camp supported about 1,000 people, with 13 saloons to slake the weary miners’ thirst.

Claim jumping and the ensuing lawsuits closed the mines down in 1909. After re-opening in 1915, miners continued to eke out a living until 1927. Then the town experienced a new boom. Gold was discovered in Hornsilver’s biggest mine, the Great Western.

Mine headframes, Gold Point, NV
Mines at Gold Point, NV

The residents changed the name of the town to Gold Point in 1932. Times were hard in those Depression years and the residents changed the name in a desperate attempt to attract investors.

Mining continued until World War Two when the government banned all mining except for those minerals needed for the war effort After the war, some folks drifted back, but the town was completely abandoned in the 1960s after a bad dynamite charge caused a disastrous cave-in.

Derelict car parked at antique gas pump Gold Point, NV
Gold Point, Nevada

The buildings lay deserted for a decade. A former resident, Ora Mae Wiley, did all she could to keep the town from falling completely apart.

A gentleman named Herb Robbins and a few of his friends began to purchase the buildings, one by one, in the 1970s. When Herb hit a big jackpot in Las Vegas a few years later, he used the money to purchase most of the buildings in town. He and his friends continued to repair roofs and lovingly refurbish interiors.

Hornsilver Townsite & Telephone building
Gold Point was named Hornsilver until the 1930s.

Some of the cabins are now part of a bed and breakfast. Profits from the B&B help to pay for the restoration and preservation of many of the buildings.

The B&B website says, “When you visit Gold Point you may not see anyone, but rest assured they are watching you.” Sounds kind of creepy, but basically it’s just a neighborhood watch program. The entire town is privately owned, so look but don’t touch. No souvenirs, please. Leave the artifacts where they lay. Neighbors looking out for each other are why Gold Point is so well preserved.

Gas pump & ore car
No artifact collecting allowed

If you’d like to keep the ghosts at bay, visit on a weekend. The museums are usually open then. The town also has a big celebration on Memorial Day, with a chili cook-off, live music and raffle prizes.

As for me, I’ll visit when it’s lonely. I think the town’s apparent abandonment is part of the charm. I can’t wait to go back, and I’ll stay a little longer next time. But if you visit before I do, be sure and tell Maynard I said Hello!

Gold Point is north of Beatty, about 7 miles off Highway 95 on Highway 266.

 

 

There Will Be Flowers

Death Valley National Park

Another wildflower update – I’m just so excited about the rain! I’m in Monterey on the California coast and it’s raining now, destroying any chances for me to see the eclipse. It rained and blew so hard earlier on this week that the power was out for 24 hours. I had to laugh – I wanted to spend a little time on the Pacific Coast in winter so that I could experience the big storms and watch the wild winter waves. Be careful what you ask for…

Death Valley National Park
Desert Paintbrush

What’s got me really excited, though, is that some of these storms have made it over or around the mountains and are reaching the desert.

Rainfall totals in Death Valley are still grim. But it IS a big park, and the only place they report totals from is Furnace Creek. The southern part of the park has been receiving rain. I camped at the southern end of the Greenwater Valley in mid-December and there were sprouts coming up, and green fuzz between Jubilee and Salsbury Passes.

Mud Cracks and Flowers
Broad Flowered Gilia

Mojave is getting green patches, but not much going on there yet. They DID get over an inch of rain in early December, so there are possibilities for later in the spring.

Joshua Tree should be GREAT this year, There are already good flowers happening there, and it will get better and better.

Box Canyon Road near Mecca, my favorite way to get from Joshua Tree to Anza Borrego is full of blooms, now, too. But there’s one problem – the road is gone, washed away in flash floods. Don’t know if it will be repaired by spring or not.

Death Valley National Park
Desert Globemallow

Anza-Borrego is forecasting an awesome year, too. They also got over an inch in the early December storm, half an inch New Year’s Eve, and a shower a week since then. They are already reporting some flowers, probably triggered by an October storm. Expect the bigger bloom to start in about a month.

Caltha Leafed Phacelia and Fremont Pincushion
Desert Bouquet

I want you to be excited, too, so here’s a few desert wildflower pix to get you going. If you’d like some of these images as wall art or printed on merchandise, check out my site at Fine Art America.

 

Happy flower hunting!

Olympic Beaches

Olympic National Park

Hiking the Pacific coast in Olympic National Park has long been on my bucket list. I’ve dreamed of this hike. Olympic National Park protects over 73 miles of coastline. About two-thirds of those miles are wilderness.

I’ve done a lot of backpacking in my time but I have never done the endless beach walk. What an epic experience that would be! It rates very high on that bucket list. I’m not asking for the whole 73 miles. I would be happy to just spend three days.

Beach 4, Olympic National Park, Washington
The Olympic coast is a very foggy place.

Think of it.  Dark forests of old growth Sitka spruce, cedar, hemlock and maple, dripping with moss and ferns. Rocky outcroppings  harboring tidal pools of colorful sea stars and anemones. Arches and sea stacks sculpted by the waves. Discovering treasures as you beachcomb your way down miles of black sand beaches.  Mazes of driftwood providing shelter from the wind and warm campfires.  Mighty waves roaring and crashing. Amazing sunsets. But lots of fog – and rain.

Beach 3, Olypic National Park
Sculpted Rocks and Driftwood

Well, it didn’t happen this time. There were lots of reasons. It’s a trip I would want to do with a companion and I was traveling solo. I didn’t have appropriate gear. The tides were timed wrong, with low tide coming just before sunrise and just after sunset when I was there. It was pouring down buckets of rain as often as not. I didn’t have the permits. What it all comes down to is that this is a hike that takes some planning.

Beach 3, Olympic National Park
Beach 3, Olympic National Park

It;s not an easy hike. There are lots of hazards. It’s not all sandy beach. There are stretches of ankle-twisting cobbles that can be ridiculously slippery in the rain. Sneaker waves can take you away. If the ocean isn’t successful in carrying you off with a sneaker wave, it might retaliate by tossing trees at you. Yeah, really. Big trees. You have to be on the lookout for bears and mountain lions when traversing the rain forest on the headlands.

Sometimes you have to climb these headlands where they cliff out into the sea. There are 7 impassible headlands where you must go overland. These paths are steep and slippery. So steep and slippery that you cannot ascend without a rope or cable anchored into place to aid you. Leather gloves are recommended to make it up and down these ropes and cables safely. The biggest hazard, though, is getting caught out by the tide. There are 23 spots that can only be crossed at low tide. You have to have a tide table and a watch, and you have to be aware.

Mora Campground
Coastal Rain Forest

You need good topo maps to point out the headlands and low tide crossings. You need good rain gear.  You should have light, flexible hiking boots instead of the heavier, stiffer boots you might use in an alpine environment. You need a bear resistant food container. You need to put everything in plastic bags to protect against the all-pervading moisture. I’d bring a sponge to mop up my tent, if I were you.

You need permits. Not only do you need a permit from the Park Service, there are 3 different Native American tribes whose lands you may cross. If you do, you will need permits and permission from them, too. You see what I mean when I say this trip takes a bit of prior research and planning!

Beach 3, Olympic National Park
Sun bursting through the fog

So I didn’t do the backpack this year. However, I did spend a little time on the coast. Call it a scouting mission. Here are my impressions of a few of the beaches in the southern half of the Olympic Coast.

Sea stacks and waves, Olympic National Park
Rialto Beach

Rialto Beach

Rialto Beach is right next to Mora Campground, one of the four campgrounds located along the coast. I like my campsite here, tucked within giant trees with a smaller young maple forming a canopy over my tent that helps to keep it a little bit drier.

This is a cobble beach, made up of flat gray stones, perfect skipping stones if it were a lake instead of a rambunctious, unruly ocean. Not the best beach for beachcombing.  It’s a gray, blustery day, not as rainy as some, just small squalls and showers that come and go.  It’s kind of chilly, but it makes for some great wave watching. The tide is coming in and it’s fun to watch the waves explode against the offshore rocks.

I watch a seagull sitting on one of these rocks. Some waves are bigger than others and he flies off his perch and hovers in the air every time a slightly bigger wave threatens to drench him. There are tidal pools  and an arch about a  mile and a half north There’s a creek to cross and the tides are wrong, and I don’t have enough time before sunset to make it there and back.  Instead, I perch on a log in a pile of driftwood and meditate, vowing to return one day when the tides are right and walk through that arch, maybe even camp near it.

Arch at Ruby Beach, Olympic National Park
Ruby Beach

Ruby Beach

Ruby Beach has an arch, too. This is my favorite beach in Olympic. Too bad so many other people love it so much, too. It’s crowded near the arch when the sun is out, but when the fog destroys all hope of a sunset shot the crowd dwindles. I avoid the crowd by walking south down the beach, away from the arch and the sea stacks.

Then I find the whale. I thought it was a rock at first. It looks more like a geological formation than a once living being. Bold black and orange stripes, layered yet twisted, the rest of the lump shapeless, the nothing greyish color of weathered rock. I’ve seen similar colors and patterns in the canyons of the Desert Southwest. There’s no head that I can discern. The only thing that looks like an animal are the flukes of its tail.

And the stench. I literally cannot breathe downwind of this creature. It is the worst thing I’ve ever smelled.

It’s not very big as whales go, about beluga size. It’s a baleen whale, the black and orange stripes are its throat sack. What kind of a whale is it?  I have no idea.

Olympic National Park
Dead Whale on Ruby Beach

Beach 3

It is so foggy this morning that I can’t even see 10 yards. It doesn’t matter, I have finally made it to a beach at low tide. Time to go tidepooling! I walk over, under, and through the rocky boulders on the point. I am deeply disappointed. There are lots of anemones. But there are no starfish.

Starfish play a big part in this dream I have of walking Olympic beaches. Since I’m a mountain girl unfamiliar with the sea, they’re rainbow-colored fantasy animals to me,  exotic and strange. I’ve seen the pictures and postcards, from Shi-Shi Beach and Beach 4. I SO want to see and photograph starfish. But I’m too late. They’re all gone.

Starfish used to be common all along the Pacific Coast, but not anymore. In 2013 an epidemic struck the starfish. It was literally a plague, wiping out up to 99% of the starfish on some beaches in a matter of weeks. The sickness took out the entire West Coast, from Mexico to Alaska. On the Washington coast mortality was about 90%. It’s called  Sea Star Wasting Syndrome. It’s pretty horrible. The starfish lose legs and start dissolving into a pile of goo, WHILE THEY”RE STILL ALIVE!

Beach 3 tide pool, Olympic National Park
Sea anemones on Beach 3

Scientists aren’t totally sure what the cause is. It’s probably a virus, but ocean warming and acidification, major consequences of climate change, seem to also play a part.  It’s happened before, but never so severe an outbreak. In some places like the Oregon Coast the epidemic seems to be over and sea stars are slowly making a comeback. Washington and British Columbia, though, are listed as this year’s hotspots for the disease.

Sea Star Wasting Syndrome doesn”t just destroy sea stars. It destroys a whole ecosystem. Some sea stars are important predators, and their favorite food is sea urchins. Sea urchins are grazing animals. They eat kelp. Kelp forests shelter an amazing number of different animals, especially juveniles. With no sea stars, the sea urchin population has skyrocketed, decimating the kelp forests. It’s all connected.

It’s not all bad news. There is a very thin ray of hope. In some localities it seems sea stars are mutating to overcome the virus. Maybe it’s just as well that I missed the tides this year. Maybe, just maybe, when I visit another time the sea stars will have found a way to survive and come back.

Olympic National Park, Kalaloch Campground
Sunset on Kalaloch Beach

Big is Beautiful

Mt. Blackburn, Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, Alaska

I’ve just discovered the WordPress Lens Artist Photo Challenge. Tina Schell, whose blog is called Travels and Trifles, came up with this week’s theme, “Big is Beautiful”.

How appropriate that I found it this week, I can’t help but think, as big is beautiful has defined my life in many ways.

For one thing, I’m a big girl. I keep telling myself big is beautiful, but I don’t always believe it.

More importantly though, big is beautiful has defined my life geographically, as a rambling ranger, for many years. After all, I live in Alaska, the biggest state in the Union.

Thorofare Pass, Denali National Park
Maybe vast is a better word than big to define Alaska.

I even worked for a few years in Denali National Park, home to the biggest mountain in North America.

North face of Denali, Denali National Park
Denali

I live in Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the biggest national park in the U.S. by far. It’s the size of Switzerland with Yellowstone and Yosemite thrown in.

Bonanza Ridge, Wrangell St. Elias National park
Hiking in the Wrangells

My favorite geologic feature in this fabulous park is the Stairway Icefall, one of the tallest icefalls in North America, if not the world. It rises 7,000 feet in under 2 miles.

Stairway Icefall, Wrangell St. Elias National Park
The view of Stairway Icefall from my front yard – I’m a lucky girl.

I work in the “ghost town” of Kennecott. The Kennecott Mill just may be the tallest wooden building in North America. It’s big.

Kennecott National Historic Landmark
The Kennecott Mill, is a big, TALL building

I spent 8 winters as a ranger in Death Valley National Park. At 3.2 million acres, it is the largest national park in the contiguous United States.

Black Mountains, Death Valley National Park
Don’t let the name scare you, Death Valley is big and beautiful. Just don’t go in the summer!

Currently I’m spending time in the Pacific Northwest, home to big trees.

Hoh Rain Forest, Olympic National Park
Old Growth Maple

The place where I’m staying is only a few blocks from the Pacific Ocean, the biggest of them all!

Klaloch Beach, Olympic National Park
Pacific Ocean Sunset

Live Large! Go Big!

Sedona – Sucked Into The Vortex

Cathedral Rocks is a vortex spot.

 

I didn’t expect to like this place so much.

I had a bad first impression. I was driving through on my way to Death Valley. I didn’t have a lot of time, but I had an hour or two to check it out, see if it was worth coming back to. My sister loved it, said it was the best place for a family vacation ever, better than Disneyland. Other friends spoke of it in reverent tones. I had high hopes.

Fay Canyon
Wine Glass for a Giant

I traveled down beautiful Oak Creek Canyon. I pulled into a Forest Service parking lot and pulled out my America The Beautiful Pass. This is supposed to be good for all federal public lands, I thought. Not so. My pass was no good here. I wasn’t willing to spend an additional $5 or $7 when I only had an hour to spend, so I went on to Sedona.

The crazy congested confusion of uptown Sedona really freaked me out. Too busy for me! I don’t need this pretentious, expensive, New-Agey town! I spent my spare hour and a half on THAT road trip in Jerome.

But when a listing came up for a housesitting gig in Sedona this fall, I thought I’d give it a second chance. I’m glad I did.

Western Bluebirds
Here a bird, there a bird, everywhere a bird, bird

The Trails

Sedona has the best urban trail system anywhere. There’s so much green space. Big red rocks everywhere. Wherever you are, you’re only minutes away from another incredible rock formation.

And birds. The bird watching is phenomenal here. Everywhere I went – riparian areas, upland forest, desert red rock – there were lots and lots of birds, even in places you wouldn’t expect them.

Fay Canyon
Crazy Manzanita Tree of Life living sculpture

And the trees. I’ve generally lived in landscapes with a minimum of variety when it comes to trees. If you can learn five species, you’ve pretty much got it covered. Not here.

I fell in love with two new trees. There were the sycamores along the streams. I’d seen a few last year in my travels through southern Arizona, but I really got to know them this time around. My favorite new tree was the Arizona Cypress. The foliage is somewhat like a Juniper, but the bark is something else, shedding in strips and smooth underneath, mottled grey and red. I just had to pet them.

Boynton Canyon Vista
View from a Vortex

They make a big deal about the vortexes here – supposedly places where the Earth’s energy rises up and is accessible, power places. I visited three of the four vortex spots, but they weren’t necessarily MY favorite hikes.

One of my favorite trails was Buddha Beach, renamed the Baldwin Trail. It takes you to Oak Creek with wonderful views of Cathedral Rock. Another was Soldier Pass. You pass by a big sinkhole, Devil’s Kitchen, then up to the Seven Sacred Pools, (they’re tiny), through an Arizona Cypress forest to a couple of arches. Great way to spend a day.

Oak Creek and Cathedral Rocks
Buddha Beach

Shopping

 Yes, it is pretentious. I went to First Friday to check out the galleries, and I thought most of them were overpriced for what they had to offer. I’ve worked art galleries and used to be a co-owner of an art co-op, so I know what I’m talking about. But there are exceptions. The Turquoise Tortoise had good stuff at fairly reasonable prices – for an art gallery, that is.

Tlaquepaque Sedona AZ
Sedona is a great place to go browsing in the shops.

There was one gallery that really impressed me. It was the finest art gallery I have ever seen. It’s called Exposures. Yes, you could buy a small house for the price of some of these pieces, but they’re actually worth it. If I were a rock star I’d shop here.

The wind sculptures swirling out in front are what first caught my eye. When you enter the building, be prepared to be blown away. I can’t even describe some of the amazing pieces I saw. They’re, well, ART, plain and simple. A lot of mixed media, abstract, amazing and hard to describe. One artist combines oil painting with crystals. I don’t mean one or two crystals, but whole rafts of them, major mineral specimens making up the shoreline of an ocean sunset, for example. Breathtaking. Another artist creates whimsical sculptures by mixing hand blown glass and metalworking. I’ve never seen so much sheer creativity in one place before.

Natural Wonders Gift Shop Sedona AZ
I really liked Lowell’s shop, Natural Wonders

There are other cool shops mixed in with the art galleries. There’s wonderful hand crafted clothing, neat rock shops, and more. I don’t usually spend much time shopping, but it was fun to check that scene out.

Then there are all the New Age shops. I didn’t have time to look into it, but if you ever want a past life reading this would be the place to get it – or have your aura photographed, or buy magical crystals… you get the idea.

My two week housesit wasn’t enough. I came back and spent another week, then a few more days, then… I know I’ll be back. It seems that I, like many another Sedona visitor, can’t get enough. I’ve been sucked into the vortex.

Sedona, AZ
Alpenglow on Red Rock

The View from my Front Porch

Mt. Donaho & Stairway Icefall

We all have our priorities in life. Words and actions that guide us on our path. Maybe it’s family, first and forever. Maybe it’s work hard so you can retire by the time you’re 50. Well, I’ve never been especially ambitious. Although I love a lot of people deeply,  I’m basically footloose and fancy free, with no super close emotional ties. So my priority is a little different. From early on, I vowed that the best way to keep my soul alive was to wake in beauty every day.

Bonanza Ridge
Bonanza Ridge

I’ve tried to be true to my vow. I’ve lived in a lot of beautiful places – from the Florida Keys to the Rockies to Hawaii and of course, Alaska. I had the great good fortune to discover, many long years ago, one of the most beautiful places on the planet – McCarthy, Alaska. This has been my home for a long time, and I wake in beauty every day there, as you can see. I took all these pictures one day from my front porch!

I’ve spent winters in McCarthy, winters filled with a peace and solitude few ever experience. But we don’t call it the “do it the hard way club” for nothing. And my half-finished house is not really ready to stay in during the deep cold of a winter in the Alaskan bush. Besides, there are just too many beautiful places in the world to spend all your time in just one, no matter how incredible that place is. Too many ecosystems I haven’t experienced.  Life is short and there’s so much to see!

Porphyry Mountain

So, this winter I’ll be taking an extended road trip. In the coming weeks the view from my front porch will change, as I travel through the West before heading back up North, following the flowers from the desert to the coast.

Fireweed Mountain
Fireweed Mountain

As the view changes and evolves, so will my blog. I will have updates on the wildflowers, of course, but I’ll try to keep things interesting by mixing it up a bit. I’ll share my passion for our public lands as I discover new places. Look for vignettes of quirky, off-the-wall destinations, interesting tidbits about the natural world, lots of pretty pictures, and maybe even a little history now and then.

my favorite view
my favorite view

Join me on my travels by staying tuned to this blog. Follow my posts and share them with your friends. Walk in beauty with me always, I would love the company!

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