The Loneliest Day

I made reservations at a B&B in Duncan, Arizona. There were a couple of routes I could take to get there, both between 200 and 250 miles long. Didn’t seem like much of a difference. One seemed more direct, but it went up high, into the mountains. Looked a little curvy, but it was a regular state highway. It hadn’t snowed for a week and there were no storms in the forecast. Should be OK. The other route looked to take me a bit more out of my way. It was a little bit longer. I had a hard time making up my mind, but finally went for the shorter, more direct route.

It was only a little over 200 miles, so when the B&B asked for an estimated arrival time, I typed in 6:00. Shouldn’t take more than 4 or 5 hours, so that would give me time for a morning hike in Petrified Forest on the way. I reached Springerville around 3:00 PM, with 130 miles left to go. Right on time, piece of cake, right? That’s what I thought.

After about 25 miles on Highway 191, I started getting my first clue. I had not seen even one other vehicle on the road. Not one. Hmmm… Do they know something I don’t? I started to wonder. It wasn’t long before I had my answer.

At first there were the road signs – “Road not patrolled” and “No snowplows evenings or weekends”. I wasn’t worried – after all, no snow in the forecast. Besides, I live at the end of the McCarthy Road. I’m used to scary road signs.

The trees closed in. The road got narrower. Snow started drifting into it, not bad, but more than I had expected. The road got curvier. WAY curvier. I saw an elk, but no vehicles. When I passed the hamlet of Alpine, every building was boarded up for the winter. Well… too late to turn back now. I press on.

The road gets even curvier. And narrower. It’s higher on the edge of the cliff, too. No guard rails or anything. There’s a sign – Speed Limit 25 miles an hour – 10 mph curves next 10 miles. More snow is drifting in and covering parts of the now very narrow road.

I started thinking about those stories – you know, those stories…about the couple who take the closed forest service road by mistake – their car breaks down – they get stuck – no one knows they are there and their bodies aren’t found until spring – you know, those stories? Fifty miles now and still no other vehicles.

The road continues to skirt the edge of the mountain. Ridge after ridge. Looking out at nothing but wilderness, as far as the eye can see. Normally a sight that would do my heart good. Not today. I was expecting to find a tree down, or a big snowdrift, blocking the road, around the next curve. In a place where I can’t turn around without falling off the cliff. More snow drifts on the road. I’m beginning to get nervous. Real nervous.

A sign – 35 miles to Morenci. I might make it yet! A few miles on, and the speed goes up to 45 mph. Whew! The worst is behind me. I’ll be down in no time! I thought.

I was only crossing the saddle to the eastern ridge. The next sign, Speed Limit 15 miles per hour. 10 mph curves next 20 miles! The road narrows and begins to climb AGAIN! Well, I’m obviously not going to make my 6:00 ETA at the B&B! Still no other vehicles. Drive careful now, if you miss a curve they WON’T find you ’til spring!

I continue on. I look over the east side of the ridge. Looks even wilder than the west side. If I wasn’t so worried about getting caught in the dark on this road, I’d think all that wilderness was pretty incredible! Enjoy it, Dianne, it’s an adventure, I tell myself.

Another ridge, then another ridge, then another ridge. Will this road never end? A big four-wheel drive truck passes, going back the way I came from. Well, at least I know I won’t find that tree blocking the road now!

The sun begins to set, the most beautiful sunset I’ve seen in Arizona. And the longest lasting, thank goodness. I would stop and take pictures, except: A. It’s all blind curves so I can’t stop in the middle of the road because that’s when another vehicle will bomb around a curve and plow into me; B. I can’t pull over even if I find a wide spot ‘cuz I’ll get stuck in the snow or mud;  and especially, C. I need to use every second of daylight to get off this damn mountain! But I revel in the long, long beautiful sunset over the wilderness, every second of it indelibly etched into my memory forever.

The ninety miles of bad road I’ve been traveling was once called Highway 666, the Devil’s Highway. They recently changed the number to 191. It’s a popular motorcycle ride in the summer. All those curves, you know. It also provides access to the Blue Mountains, some of the wildest land in all of Arizona. Lots of mountain lions. You can find Mexican Wolves here. There’s even the possibility of a jaguar traveling up from Mexico!

I make it to the top of the Morenci mine by full dark. An industrial wasteland, the Morenci Mine is the largest working copper mine left in the U.S. The road is still curvy, but at least I know they’ll find me before springtime if something goes wrong!

I make it to the town of Morenci and try to call the B&B. All I get is voice mail, so I explain my circumstances and forge on.

The long road is not over yet. Five miles from Duncan, I get pulled over by the po-po. For the first time in my life. Oh man, now I’ll REALLY be late! I fumble through my messy glove box looking for my CURRENT registration and proof of insurance through all the expired copies. “Do you know why we pulled you over?”  “Um, because I speeded up a little?” Turns out I had a taillight problem. I promise to fix it in the morning, and they let me go, no ticket. Whew!

I pull up in front of the Simpson Hotel. There’s a dim light in the lobby, but it looks deserted. I try the door. Locked. RATS! I go back to the car to get my phone.

As I reach into the front seat, the door opens. “Hi, my name is Mike. I’m the owner’s brother. They went out of town but will be back in an hour. They asked me to let you in.”

He seems nice but kind of nervous. I thank him and start explaining my long, slow journey. He cuts me off. “Here’s your room, and here’s the combo to the front door, and here’s my number in case of emergency,” and BAM!, he is outta there. Less than two minutes. It’s like he couldn’t leave fast enough.

And now, once again, I am alone. In an old, deserted hotel. In fact, it kind of looks like this whole TOWN is deserted. Not one car has driven by on the dark street out front. This is a REALLY old hotel. Shades of the Twilight Zone? I wonder if it’s haunted. Could be, it’s old enough. Could I see a ghost? Might be kind of cool. At least then I would have SOMEONE to talk to….