Going Back – Chasing the Bloom

Joshua Tree National Park

I usually spend April chasing the bloom, following the wildflowers north as I travel on my way home to Alaska. When John of Journeys With Johnbo proposed Going Back – The Second Time Around as the theme for this week’s Lens-Artists Challenge, I thought I would revisit my usual April travels, canceled this year by Coronavirus. I miss the flowers!

My wildflower journey starts in the California desert. There are three don’t-miss locations, each with its own unique flora, that I revisit every spring if I can.

Chasing the bloom in Anza-Borrego Desert State Park
Yucca Blossoms

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park

The first is Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. This is California’s largest state park, and it’s a beauty. Anza-Borrego often has one of the best spring wildflower displays in the country.

The first time I visited Anza-Borrego it was during a rare cold spell in January. I wasn’t even thinking about flowers. Temperatures got into the teens overnight, unheard of in this region. I wasn’t expecting that! Pipes froze. I froze. I went to Agua Caliente Hot Springs to warm up, and my bathing suit froze into a solid block of ice as soon as I took it off.

Chasing the Bloom in Joshua Tree National Park
Fishhook Cactus Flower

For my second time around, I made sure not to go in January! Now I go for the flowers, a little later in the year, anytime between mid-February to mid-April. I often visit twice, or even three times during a wildflower season, so that I can photograph different flowers as the bloom progresses.

The next time I go to Anza Borrego, chasing the bloom, I hope to hike Hellhole Canyon since I’ve never been there. Not only does it have great flowers, it’s a favorite hangout for Desert Bighorn Sheep. The Peninsular Bighorn is the subspecies that lives here. It’s usually found in Baja California, and Anza-Borrego is the only place in the US where you can find this animal.

Chasing the bloom in Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree

Joshua Tree National Park

Going north, I’ll stop at Joshua Tree National Park. I don’t spend much time in the northern part of the park, with the iconic rocks and namesake Joshua Trees. I spend most of my time near the southern border, because that is where the wildflowers are.

The next time I go to Joshua Tree, I might spend more time up in the rocks. Maybe I’ll even get a campsite there. It looks like an incredible place to explore if I wasn’t quite so fixated on the flowers. I would like to catch a good sunrise, and sunset, from one of those northern campgrounds. I would also like to hike Porcupine Wash and find the petroglyphs I’ve heard are out there somewhere.

Death Valley National Park
Death Valley is colorful!

Death Valley National Park

Then there’s Death Valley. It is a place close to my heart, as I was a ranger there for 8 winters. During some years the wildflowers are sensational, but in other years there is just not enough rain in the driest place in North America for a good spring bloom.

Death Valley is always worth a visit in the springtime, even if there aren’t a lot of flowers. You’ll probably find a few, and you might even find a flower that lives nowhere else in the world! There are literally thousands of untracked, remote, nameless canyons to explore. There are sand dunes and salt flats. And oh, the colors! You don’t need to have a bloom going on to find every color in the rainbow in Death Valley. I look forward to using my new Nikon camera there the next time I visit.

Chasing the bloom in Carrizo Plains National Monument
Tidy Tips

Carrizo Plains National Monument

Chasing the bloom, last year I visited Carrizo Plains National Monument for the first time. It won’t be the last.  In a good year, Carrizo Plains has THE best wildflower display in the country! I’ve never seen anything like it. It boggles my mind to think that the whole Central Valley looked like this once, in the days before agriculture and oil wells. The flower fields go on forever, mile after mile of solid color. It looks like a monoculture in places, entire hillsides or valleys dyed purple or gold. But when you get out of your car and walk around, the variety is astounding. And the perfume in the air! The delicate scent of the flowers is the best thing about Carrizo Plains in my opinion, pure nirvana.

The next time I visit Carrizo Plains, I would like to visit the area near the campground. I never made it to that part of the Monument because of mechanical issues with my little truck. It was tired of all the dirt road back roads I was taking it on and went on strike! When I got back to pavement and went to the coast to get it fixed, the check engine light magically disappeared!

Phacelia
Purple Mountains’ Majesty

Sometimes I travel up the coast on my way home. There are some flowers, but no big displays, at least not of native flowers. Plenty of beautiful invasives, though!

Sierra Foothills

Usually, I head for the western Sierra foothills.  When I get there in the middle of April, it is the peak of the spring bloom. It’s a different ecosystem with different flowers. There are lots of butterflies, too. My favorite bloom, though, is the Redbud tree.

Chasing the bloom in the Sierra Foothills
Redbud Blossoms

Wow! I had never seen this tree before my first spring journey to the Sierra foothills. Pink, pink, pink, pink, pink! They’re gorgeous. I’m sorry I’m missing them this year.

Of course, I usually do a drive-thru of Yosemite to check out the waterfalls along the way. I camp for a couple of nights on BLM land along the Merced River. The flowers are great there, it’s close enough to the park for a visit, and it’s not crowded. Maybe the next time I visit the Sierra foothills and Yosemite I’ll actually camp in the park and spend a little more time there.  I tend to make my visit short because the park is so loved to death, but if there has been a good snow year and the waterfalls are raging, I can’t resist.

Yosemite National park
A Yosemite Waterfall

Continuing north through the redwood forest, the flowers grow scarce. Nothing but Redwood Sorrel and Trillium in April there. But the trees make up for any lack of flowers.

Southern Oregon

I’ll continue chasing the bloom into southern Oregon, catching the last spring wildflower season I’ll see on my April journey North. Once again, different ecosystem, different flowers. Lilies abound, with a plethora of different varieties. There are shooting stars, too, one of my favorite flowers.

Chasing the bloom in southern Oregon
Fawn Lily and Shooting Stars

The next time I make it to southern Oregon in April, maybe I’ll spend a few more days there. I’m usually running out of time by then, with a deadline imposed by my return to work in Alaska.

I really miss the flowers this year. But maybe when I can travel, I’ll see a host of new varieties since my timing will be different. It’s something to look forward to.

chasing the bloom in Oregon
What new flowers will I discover this summer?

Reflections

Behind the Rocks

For this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, I’ll showcase a few reflections of places I love.

I love the way the clouds are reflected in the wet sand at low tide on the Long Beach Peninsula in Washington.

Reflections
Long Beach Peninsula, Washington

The Colorado River near Moab, Utah, is one of my favorite places to catch those mirror images.

Potash Road
The Colorado River from the Potash Road near Moab

On my last visit to Rocky Mountain National Park, I caught this buck thinking about crossing the road through my side rear view mirror.

Rocky Mountain National Park
Typical national park megafauna traffic jam

Bird reflections are always a favorite. I caught this one at Moss Landing Beach in California.

Watchable wildlife
Snowy Egret fishing

Rear view mirrors aren’t the only place I might see my surroundings reflected on my little truck.

Kofa National Wildlife Refuge
The view from my campsite at Kofa National Wildlife Refuge, Arizona

A post of my favorite places wouldn’t be complete without something closer to home.

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
Reflections along the McCarthy Road

I recently left a wonderful stay on the Mendocino Coast,

Mendocino magic
Seaside Beach

and now I’m road-tripping, Mendo to the Mojave. Today I’ll be in Death Valley. It rained hard last night. Maybe I’ll see a scene like this…

Death Valley National Park
Badwater Reflections

 

The Future Is Happening Now!

Pacific Coast

For this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, Ann-Christine asks us to envision the future. It could be near future or far, personal future or universal.

“The future’s uncertain, but the end is always near. ” Jim Morrison

I read Tina’s post, with its warnings about the consequences of climate change. Climate change was already on my mind. I had just spent the morning at an open house held by the Navarro-By-The-Sea Center. They are trying to save the remaining historical buildings still standing at the site of the former town of Navarro-By-The-Sea, but the open house was held more to bring awareness of king tides and the rise of sea level due to climate change.

A king tide was in progress, so to get to the Center those of us without 4-wheel drive had to take a shuttle with high enough clearance to ford the water. The beach parking lot was completely underwater. Sea level is 6 inches higher than it was in 1950. This may not seem like much, but the rate is increasing dramatically, over 66% in the last 5 years. Now it’s rising at the rate of an inch every 5 years, and that rate is still going up. A lot of places are going under, and the king tides are a preview of what will become an everyday occurrence in the near future.

climate change
King tides and rising sea level

As I witness ecosystem crashes and see the current administration win one battle after another in its War Against Nature, I despair. When I contemplate the future, I fear we’re already past the tipping point.

I couldn’t go there. I thought of other signs of the consequences of climate change I could write about, but it all made me so sad. I couldn’t write a whole post with no hope, and I was feeling hopeless.

Navarro River Beach
Sea level is rising.

I needed some positivity, so I started playing Michael Franti as I read the post from Soybend, “Someday in the Future”. It was uplifting, positive and poetic, just what I needed. I then learned about new research connecting melting ice in the Arctic to the increasing prevalence of El Nino cycles.

I saw a teeny, tiny silver lining to the dark storm clouds of the future. More El Ninos = more desert wildflowers. Ironic that as so many other places dry up and desiccate, the California desert will get wetter.

Apricot Globemallow
More desert wildflowers?

I started thinking about desert wildflowers, and that led me to my personal near future, which is actually pretty exciting.

“The future’s so bright, I’ve gotta wear shades.”

Patrick Lee Mac Donald

I’m currently housesitting on the beautiful Mendocino Coast in northern California. Think redwoods and wild, secluded beaches with an abundance of arches and sea stacks.

Navarro Redwoods State Park
Love those Redwoods!

I’ll leave here in early March and go down to see the desert flowers. I’ll head east and travel through the Sierra foothills so I can avoid the urban insanity of San Francisco traffic. Along the way, maybe I’ll stop at Yosemite.

Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Falls

I have four flower destinations in mind. Death Valley received nearly an inch of rain over the winter, which is a decent amount for that place. When I passed through in mid-January, there were a lot of little seedlings coming up. I even saw a Turtleback blooming already. If the winds and heat aren’t too brutal, it might be a nice bloom this year. Since the last 3 years were abysmal there, I’m looking forward to and hoping for a good season this time around.

Death Valley National Park
Notchleaf Phacelia

Joshua Tree has gotten a lot of moisture this winter, both snow and rain. There’s a current winter storm warning there, so the precip is still happening. I think Joshua Tree might be THE place to check out this year, although I doubt if it will be quite as outrageous as it was last spring.

Joshua Tree National park
Purple Mat

Anza Borrego has gotten a fair amount of precipitation, too, over an inch in one winter storm. Smaller storms since then have kept the ground moist. Word is flowers are already blooming in Coyote Canyon.

Anza Borrego State Park
Wild Apricot

Last year I discovered Carrizo Plains. The rough dirt roads are hard on my little truck, but I’ll just have to try to go slow and pray the washboard isn’t TOO bad. I thought it had some of the best wildflowers I’d ever seen, and Carrizo got hit by all the same storms that have inundated Joshua Tree.

Carrizo Plains National Monument
Camping at Carrizo Plains

As I head back north to Alaska, those Sierra foothills and southern Oregon should be blooming. I’m not sure if I’ll travel back by the coast or interior yet, but by May I’ll be back home enjoying the incredible view from my front porch.

Mt. Regal
part of the view from my front porch

Happy flower hunting!

 

Three Rivers Petroglyphs

Three Rivers

One of the special places I discovered during my recent sojourn in New Mexico was the Three Rivers Petroglyphs Site.

I’ve always been a big fan of the petroglyphs and pictographs left behind by the ancient peoples of the Southwest. Religious rituals or prehistoric graffiti? Hard to say. I sometimes wonder what future archaeologists will make of the artwork found on railroad cars and inner-city walls.

Three Rivers Petroglyph Site
There are over 21,000 petroglyphs at 3 Rivers.

I made it a mission many years ago, when I worked ski resorts in the winter, to spend a month each spring on the Colorado Plateau searching out ancient rock art sites, trying to see and photograph as many as possible before they were ruined or degraded by ignorant yahoos with shotguns and spray paint.

I’m still enthralled with these signs left from the people who came before us. That’s why I was so excited to find Three Rivers.  Three Rivers Petroglyphs Site has a LOT of rock art. Over 21,000 individual petroglyphs can be found here, most accessible along a rough mile-long  trail from the campground. The Jornada Mogollon people were the artists, decorating the rocks between 900 and 1400 AD. They also had a village nearby, which can be reached by another short trail.

3 Rivers petroglyphs
Religious significance or graffiti? Who knows?

I planned to camp when I got there, but when I arrived I found the BLM campground quite unappealing. A gravel lot with a few mesquite trees planted for shade, the sites were too close together and afforded little to no privacy. But I learned that there was a much nicer Forest Service campground, also called Three Rivers, just 12 miles away. I decided to check it out.

The Forest Service Campground was beautiful. All day long, though, for some reason, I’d felt uneasy about camping. My instincts were sending me red flags, but I didn’t know why. The area was fairly remote. Was I too close to the border to be camping solo?  I really wanted to stay, but the neon DANGER sign wouldn’t quit flashing in my mind. I equivocated with myself – if there were others camped there I would stay – safety in numbers – if not, I would have to leave.

White Mountain Wilderness
From the Forest Service 3 Rivers Campground, a trail leads up the canyon deep into the heart of the White Mountain Wilderness.

The camping spots were spacious and inviting. I toured the campground. Someone was parked in the Host spot. I saw one other occupied campsite. The old gentleman relaxing in the sun there looked like Santa Claus. I got no danger vibes from him. I passed a campsite filled with a herd of mule deer. That’s my spot! I really wanted to stay there. I parked and walked down to the registration board to claim my campsite.

But the danger signals wouldn’t go away. Would a bear come and molest my camp? There were numerous bear warning signs, both in the campground and at the trailhead. I watched the heavy cloud of a winter snowstorm settle on the peak at the head of the canyon. Would the snow level drop and make it a cold and miserable night? Was it something else? I really wanted to stay and decided to ignore my uneasy feelings.

3 Rivers Forest Service Campground
Deer at my campsite!

I set up my camp chair but didn’t set up my camp yet. I just soaked in the sunshine and reveled in the peace. Then I heard a horrifying scream, kind of a combination of a scream and a bray, immediately followed by the high-pitched singing of a pack of coyotes. The sound kept reverberating, incredibly loud, echoing throughout the canyon.

Wow. I think I had just heard a pack of coyotes kill a large animal. Were there wild burros here? The bray kind of sounded like a burro. Or was it a deer dying? It was one of the wildest sounds I’d ever heard. Now I REALLY wanted to stay. But I still felt so, so uneasy.

I reached into my truck to get out a bird guide to identify some of the songbirds fluttering around near my camp. As I turned around to close the door, I caught a glimpse of a coyote running up the hill, less than 20 yards away, He was a big mountain coyote, not a scrawny Wile E. desert coyote. This place was getting more awesome every minute! But, still… I learned a long time ago to listen to my instincts. But it was so wild and beautiful.

# Rivers Petroglyph site
New Mexico is full of surprises!

It was almost sunset, and I needed to commit. Just then, a man walked by my campsite. I think he was the campground host. In a distinctly unfriendly tone of voice, he said, “Oh, there is somebody staying here.” I said “Hi, how’s it going”, and he morosely replied, “I’m alive.”

OK, the red flags are flying. My instincts are screaming at me now. Suddenly the barren BLM Three Rivers Petroglyphs campground is looking good.3 Rivers Petroglyph site

I stayed until sunset because I really didn’t want to leave, then headed up the road. As soon as I pulled away from the canyon, the heavy, leaden uneasiness I’d felt all day evaporated like a puff of smoke. I’ll never know why I felt so uneasy, but I’m glad I visited and didn’t stay.

Back at the BLM campground, there was only one other camper, another solo woman. It turned out to be a fabulous place to spend the night.

I’ll be back to Three Petroglyphs one day. I want to stay at that wonderful Forest Service campground on a day when my red flags aren’t flying, and hike the trail into the canyon.

Three Rivers BLM Campground
Petroglyphs everywhere!

I want to stay at the BLM campground again too, for another reason. I stopped at the Tularosa Basin Gallery of Photography in Carrizozo, a sleepy little town north of Three Rivers. It’s the largest photography gallery in the state of New Mexico, and I discovered a new favorite photographer, Wayne Suggs.

His night sky shots of the petroglyphs are some of the most incredible I’ve ever seen. After seeing his images, everything else in the gallery seemed inconsequential. His work is phenomenal. One day I would like to take a workshop and learn from this master, then go back to Three Rivers and photograph the night sky.

 

My Favorite Unpublished Photos of 2019

Favorite photos of 2019

Happy New Year! Patti of Pilotfish has presented us with a delightful yet difficult challenge this week -Favorite Photos of 2019. How do you choose? It isn’t easy.

I got distracted a lot as I browsed through thousands of photos, with an image catching my eye and sending me into a memory. Focus, Di, focus! Don’t go down that rabbit hole! Is it really one of your 10 best of the year?

In the end, I couldn’t do it. I could narrow it down to 40 or so, but 10? Impossible!

So I took a page from NatGeo’s book. I COULD narrow it down to my favorite 10 unpublished photos of the year, ones that for one reason or another had not made it onto a blog post.

I’ll do this directionally. I’ll start in the northwest and make my way down towards the southeast.

Favorite Photos of 2019
Matanuska Sunrise

Matanuska Valley, Alaska

I had an early morning doctor’s appointment. However, it was a 7-hour drive from my home in remote rural Alaska to the doctor’s office. So I left after work, drove part way, slept in the back of my truck, and continued on my way just before the crack of dawn. My reward was a beautiful sunrise over the Matanuska River, one of the most spectacular sunrises I’ve ever seen. My photos don’t do it justice, but here’s my best shot at it.

 

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Life in the Wrangells

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

We have some really big mountains in the Wrangells. In fact, Wrangell-St. Elias has more mountains over 14,500 feet than anywhere else in North America. Furthermore, unlike Colorado’s 14-ers, Alaska’s mountains start from a lot closer to sea level!  They are REALLY big mountains. I like this image because you get an impression of just how big they really are.

 

Stone Mountain Provincial Park
Stone Sheep

Stone Mountain Provincial Park, British Columbia

My favorite day when I drive the Al-Can Highway is the day I drive through Stone Mountain and Muncho Lake Provincial Parks. They are both home to the somewhat rare and beautiful Stone Sheep, and if I’m lucky I might see one. This year I was able to shoot this environmental portrait of a ram doing what Stone Sheep do best, climbing cliffs.

 

2019 Favorite Photos
Swallowtail

Electra Road near Jackson, CA

Although I’m usually raving about the wildflowers in the desert, by the time April rolls around you’ll find fantastic wildflowers in the Sierra foothills, too. That’s where I captured this image of a swallowtail butterfly sipping nectar from a flower.

 

My favorite unpublished photo of 2019
The Mighty Ocean

Point Pinos, California

I think this is my new favorite photo of 2019. I don’t know why I never noticed it before. I was trying to capture the power and fury of a winter storm on the Pacific coast. Big waves. I can watch them all day.

 

Elephant Seals
Lovers

Piedras Blancas, California

One of my favorite photographic experiences of 2019 was watching the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas. It was a true wildlife drama, with hundreds of seals birthing, mating and fighting just yards away from their human voyeurs. As I watched, the seals struck me as some of the most ill-tempered animals I’d ever seen, always fighting and arguing – all of them, not just the bulls. Mating, in most cases, seemed exceptionally harsh and brutal. This couple was the exception. They seemed, dare I say it, actually content and peaceful with each other! I tried to capture that feeling.

 

Joshua Tree National Park
Pink-Flower Hedgehog Cactus

Joshua Tree National Park

If you follow my blog at all, you know that no roundup of my favorite photos of 2019  would be complete without at least one closeup of a desert wildflower. I love getting up all close and personal with cactus blossoms. They’re exquisite. I found this one in Joshua Tree National Park.

 

Anza Borrego State Park
Sunrise in Coachwhip Canyon

Anza Borrego State Park, California

Because my little Toyota truck is only 2 wheel drive, sometimes my dispersed camping options are somewhat limited. I find myself returning to one particular campsite in Anza Borrego again and again. But even though flowers are going crazy in the rest of the park, there are usually very few or no flowers in my favorite canyon. This year was different. This year, my camping canyon was one of the park’s wildflower hotspots. I took this photo from the hill behind my camp.

 

Favorite photos of 2019
Arizona Sunset

Tucson, Arizona

There’s a reason Arizona is famous for its sunsets. Just sayin’.

Well, I had a hard time picking my favorite. And I find it hard to be objective. Each image is colored by the experience that accompanied it.

How about you? Which one is your favorite? Let me know in the comments.

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2019 Photography Destinations – A Baker’s Dozen of My Personal Favorites Part 2

Favorite 2019 Photography Destinations

The countdown continues. A few days ago I posted spots 13 through 7 of my favorite 2019 photography destinations.  This week, I list the best ones of all, the destinations that rated 1 through 6 of my personal best.

6) Joshua Tree National Park

Superbloom. Joshua Tree had one this past spring. Need I say more? This coming spring should be fairly good, too. It’s been raining and snowing with more rain and snow in the forecast. Even if the flowers aren’t as spectacular as they were last spring, Joshua Tree is still a great place to visit. It is also home to some very cool rocks. One of these days I plan to spend more time in the rocks – when I’m not so distracted by the flowers.Lupines, Joshua Tree National Park

5) Anza Borrego State Park

Anza Borrego also had an excellent wildflower season. It was definitely one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations, as I got to visit not once, not twice, but three times! I saw different plants blooming each time. I even saw my favorite campsite in the park in bloom, something I’ve never been lucky enough to catch before.

Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA
Yucca Blossoms, Anza-Borrego State Park, CA

4) Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge

It’s all about the birds. And the peace. And the serenity.

Each winter vast numbers of sandhill cranes and snow geese descend upon the refuge for the winter. There are lots of other birds and wildlife, too.

It’s a great place to polish your craft. It has become one of my new favorite places.

Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge
Northern Pintail

3) San Simeon

Since I had a couple of different housesits on the central California Coast,  Piedras Blancas and San Simeon became one of my favorite 2019 photography destinations. I spent a lot of time camping at San Simeon; before, in between and after my housesits.

Down on the beach right below the campground, there is a bird sanctuary. I took advantage of the wonderful opportunities for checking out the shorebirds there. And then there’s Cambria, just a few miles south. I love that little town, and I especially love Moonstone Beach, with all the pretty pebbles.

I’d been to San Simeon before and loved it, but never at the prime time for the elephant seal action. January and February are when the elephant seals at Piedras Blancas, just a few miles up the coast, are birthing, fighting, and mating.  It’s a true wildlife extravaganza!

Piedras Blancas Elephant Seal Rookery, California
They’re so grouchy!

2) Carrizo Plains National Monument

This is definitely one of my new favorite places. Most of the year you’d never give it a second glance. But when the flowers bloom in the springtime, this land is amazing. Possibly the best wildflower display I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something. The most incredible thing, though, is the fragrance. In some places, the blend of different floral scents is pure nirvana. Take lots of deep breaths. The huge swaths of color, whole hillsides dyed pink, purple or yellow from acres upon acres of blooms can be pretty dang impressive, too.

Carrizo Plain National Monument
Owl’s Clover & Goldfields

1) Wrangell-St. Elias National Park

There’s no place like home. Especially when your home is possibly the most spectacular place in North America! When I look at the view I get right from my front porch, it’s a wonder I ever leave the place!

Wrangell St. Elias National Park
This is my commute!

I hope you enjoyed checking out my favorite photographic destinations for 2019. 2020 will bring a host of new experiences. Some of my favorites will remain the same, but I’m sure I’ll find a treasure trove of new favorites, too. Where do you plan to go in 2020? Let me know in the comments.