Driving Down Narrow Roads

Denali National Park

I thought I was used to driving on narrow roads. After all, I live at the end of the infamous McCarthy Road in Alaska.

The McCarthy Road

The  McCarthy Road has a reputation. It used to be considered the worst road in Alaska. Barely over one lane wide, the road had features like Hug-A-Boulder Bend, a dangerous blind corner.

The Kuskulana Bridge, a remnant of the old Copper River & Northwestern Railway, was another challenge. When it was built in 1910 the Kuskulana Bridge was the 17th-highest bridge in the United States.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Kuskulana Bridge

Thirty years ago, the Kuskulana crossing was just a couple of planks wide with no guard rails. Imagine crossing then, with the river over 200 feet below and nothing to stop you if you misjudged the width of that plank! People used spotters to make sure their wheels stayed on the boards while crossing this perilous chasm. Most people turned back.

We still had Hug-A-Boulder Bend when I moved to McCarthy, but the Kuskulana had been upgraded to a full one lane. With guard rails! The road still had a reputation, though, for potholes, mudslides, and railroad spikes turning up in people’s tires. It would still take a good 3 to 4 hours to travel its sixty miles. In the summertime. On a good day.

Times have changed. Hug-A-Boulder Bend is no more, blasted away, no longer a safety hazard. The road is wider, mostly 2 lanes now. Part of it was chip sealed, which actually made it worse when the frost heaves hit after the first year of smooth sailing. Although flats are still common, nobody finds spikes in their tires anymore. The road is graded more often, although it still can get a bit rough due to potholes, mudslides, and beaver dams. These days it only gets really bad in the winter. But it would still be considered narrow by most folks.

the narrow dirt McCarthy Road
The McCarthy Road is still potholed and narrow.
The Denali Park Road

Another narrow road I know well is the Park Road in Denali National Park. I drove this road frequently when I worked as a ranger there for a couple of summers. Sections of the road are so narrow and hazardous that a driver needs to pull over at the wide spots to scout the upcoming curves and wait for approaching traffic. You have to go through a training session before you are allowed to drive on this narrow road.

That road is even narrower now.  It is literally sliding right off the cliff because of melting permafrost. Last summer heavy rains exacerbated the problem.  Mudslides stranded about 300 visitors for a couple of days until road crews could clear the debris. This summer the narrow road may not be open at all past Mile 41 as park and highway personnel search for a longer-term solution for the worst section.

the narrow Denali National Park Road
The Denali Park road may be closed this summer due to geohazards caused by permafrost melting.

I thought I was used to driving on narrow roads. But this winter’s travels have put a new spin on narrow for me.

Northern California Coast Roads

This month I’m housesitting on a narrow, winding road in Mendocino County, California. I have to slow down to 20 mph for the last half mile, then completely stop and throw the truck into first gear to negotiate the steep hairpin turn into the driveway. The road is so narrow that turning out of the driveway takes both lanes and I still nearly hit the massive redwood on the other side of the road every time I leave the house. The convoluted terrain along the northern California Coast means most of the roads around here are like that, extremely narrow and squiggly.

Like Denali, geohazards such as mudslides and roads falling off cliffs complicate matters here. Some of the ways climate change impacts these roads include rising sea level and increased severity of storms.

Narrow roads in Mendocino County
Take a sharp left switchback at the mailboxes.

These narrow roads all feel like four-lane highways, though, when compared to the Bursum Road. This New Mexico road leads to the tiny mining town of Mogollon.

The Road to Mogollon

This is Gila River country. the mountains where Geronimo and his band lived.  I can understand why he was the last chief to surrender. It’s incredibly wild terrain; challenging, rough and remote.  The first time I traveled in these mountains I learned to respect just how rough and remote they could be. This year’s travels made me respect them all the more.

Mogollon is kind of a ghost town. A couple of the old buildings have been refurbished into summer businesses, and a few residents live there year-round, but walking through on a winter’s day, you probably won’t see another soul.

Which is a good thing. I certainly wouldn’t want to run into anyone coming the other way on most of the Bursum Road. It’s a one-lane road hung on the edge of a cliff, and it’s relentless. It’s a long way in between spots wide enough to pull over enough to let another car pass in the opposite direction and it’s one blind curve after another for miles and miles. It was the scariest road I’ve ever driven.

Narrow road in Mogollon, NM
The road to Mogollon is dangerous and scary!

I couldn’t find a spot wide enough to turn around safely. I was praying, “Please let me survive this. Please, don’t let there be anyone coming the other way. I promise I’ll never come here again. This trip is not worth my life.” Just to make it even more challenging, the late afternoon sun was in my eyes on the way out. The prayers changed to “Lord, please don’t let me drive over a cliff.”

I was lucky. No one was coming the other way until  I crossed the cattle guard and hit a wider pavement and safety.  Right then I passed a big pickup pulling a trailer full of mining equipment headed to Mogollon. If I had left less than 5 minutes later I would have run into him at the most hazardous curve on the road. Perfect timing! Whew!  The Universe heard my prayers! The Bursum Road was the scariest road I had ever driven.

I didn’t take any pictures to show you just how scary it is. There was nowhere that felt safe enough to stop. But here’s a link if you want to travel this road virtually. It’s the only paved road I’ve ever traveled that I wouldn’t drive again because I feel the risk is too great. This is one scary road.

A Little Advice

Some advice for folks traveling narrow roads, wherever they may find them. SLOW DOWN around the curves!! PLEASE slow down. Someone might be coming the other way and on most of these roads, you’re a long way from help. Just sayin’.

Thanks, Amy, for this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, “Narrow”.

Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
Drive slow around the curves. Remember how remote you are.

The Future Is Happening Now!

Pacific Coast

For this week’s Lens-Artists Photo Challenge, Ann-Christine asks us to envision the future. It could be near future or far, personal future or universal.

“The future’s uncertain, but the end is always near. ” Jim Morrison

I read Tina’s post, with its warnings about the consequences of climate change. Climate change was already on my mind. I had just spent the morning at an open house held by the Navarro-By-The-Sea Center. They are trying to save the remaining historical buildings still standing at the site of the former town of Navarro-By-The-Sea, but the open house was held more to bring awareness of king tides and the rise of sea level due to climate change.

A king tide was in progress, so to get to the Center those of us without 4-wheel drive had to take a shuttle with high enough clearance to ford the water. The beach parking lot was completely underwater. Sea level is 6 inches higher than it was in 1950. This may not seem like much, but the rate is increasing dramatically, over 66% in the last 5 years. Now it’s rising at the rate of an inch every 5 years, and that rate is still going up. A lot of places are going under, and the king tides are a preview of what will become an everyday occurrence in the near future.

climate change
King tides and rising sea level

As I witness ecosystem crashes and see the current administration win one battle after another in its War Against Nature, I despair. When I contemplate the future, I fear we’re already past the tipping point.

I couldn’t go there. I thought of other signs of the consequences of climate change I could write about, but it all made me so sad. I couldn’t write a whole post with no hope, and I was feeling hopeless.

Navarro River Beach
Sea level is rising.

I needed some positivity, so I started playing Michael Franti as I read the post from Soybend, “Someday in the Future”. It was uplifting, positive and poetic, just what I needed. I then learned about new research connecting melting ice in the Arctic to the increasing prevalence of El Nino cycles.

I saw a teeny, tiny silver lining to the dark storm clouds of the future. More El Ninos = more desert wildflowers. Ironic that as so many other places dry up and desiccate, the California desert will get wetter.

Apricot Globemallow
More desert wildflowers?

I started thinking about desert wildflowers, and that led me to my personal near future, which is actually pretty exciting.

“The future’s so bright, I’ve gotta wear shades.”

Patrick Lee Mac Donald

I’m currently housesitting on the beautiful Mendocino Coast in northern California. Think redwoods and wild, secluded beaches with an abundance of arches and sea stacks.

Navarro Redwoods State Park
Love those Redwoods!

I’ll leave here in early March and go down to see the desert flowers. I’ll head east and travel through the Sierra foothills so I can avoid the urban insanity of San Francisco traffic. Along the way, maybe I’ll stop at Yosemite.

Yosemite National Park
Yosemite Falls

I have four flower destinations in mind. Death Valley received nearly an inch of rain over the winter, which is a decent amount for that place. When I passed through in mid-January, there were a lot of little seedlings coming up. I even saw a Turtleback blooming already. If the winds and heat aren’t too brutal, it might be a nice bloom this year. Since the last 3 years were abysmal there, I’m looking forward to and hoping for a good season this time around.

Death Valley National Park
Notchleaf Phacelia

Joshua Tree has gotten a lot of moisture this winter, both snow and rain. There’s a current winter storm warning there, so the precip is still happening. I think Joshua Tree might be THE place to check out this year, although I doubt if it will be quite as outrageous as it was last spring.

Joshua Tree National park
Purple Mat

Anza Borrego has gotten a fair amount of precipitation, too, over an inch in one winter storm. Smaller storms since then have kept the ground moist. Word is flowers are already blooming in Coyote Canyon.

Anza Borrego State Park
Wild Apricot

Last year I discovered Carrizo Plains. The rough dirt roads are hard on my little truck, but I’ll just have to try to go slow and pray the washboard isn’t TOO bad. I thought it had some of the best wildflowers I’d ever seen, and Carrizo got hit by all the same storms that have inundated Joshua Tree.

Carrizo Plains National Monument
Camping at Carrizo Plains

As I head back north to Alaska, those Sierra foothills and southern Oregon should be blooming. I’m not sure if I’ll travel back by the coast or interior yet, but by May I’ll be back home enjoying the incredible view from my front porch.

Mt. Regal
part of the view from my front porch

Happy flower hunting!

 

April is Desert Wildflowers

Desert Wildflowers crowd a landscape in Joshua Tree National Park

Thank you, Amy, for this week’s Lens-Artist’s Photo Challenge, Hello April!

Desert Wildflowers Joshua Tree National Park
Poppies and Pincushions

Hello April! April is life bursting out all over, wildflowers as far as the eye can see, all manner of joy and celebration.

April is sweet spring skiing, all the sweeter because the tourists have gone home. Walking around is getting sloppy, though. Mud season is nearly here, and it’s time to go to the desert. It’s the excitement and anticipation as I plan my spring adventure.

Artist's Drive Formation, Death Valley
At least the rock in Death Valley is always amazing!

April is breakup. Think mud season on steroids.

April is when it starts to get HOT in the Valley. As temps climb into the triple digits, it’s time to leave the desert.

April has meant many things in my life. This year I’ll combine them all.

April is time for my spring road trip to Alaska. Time to head back home, after a detour south for one more peek at the desert bloom. I’ll joyfully celebrate life bursting out all over, wildflowers as far as the eye can see. I’m excited as I anticipate my spring adventure.

Joshua Tree National Park
Joshua Tree Flower

I don’t usually escape breakup. It generally catches me in Canada. But this year, I just might. Photos from friends on Facebook show bare ground in Alaska, unprecedented in late March. Spring is already happening there, over a month early.

Agave Bloom, Anza Borrego State Park
This lovely flower is over 10 feet tall!

It’s definitely time for me to escape the Valley. I’ve been a bit restless the past few weeks. Way back in September I made a commitment to stay in Death Valley for most of March. I knew it would be an El Nino year and I was trying to position myself ahead of time for a possible spring bloom.

So, of course, everywhere else in the desert except Death Valley got the December rain that led to an amazing bloom. Death Valley got lots of rain in 2019, over 3 inches, in fact, but spring is very late, over a month late.

Goldfield in Joshua Tree National Park
There was a full-on superbloom in Joshua Tree this spring.

I spent three weeks in March stuck in Death Valley while Joshua Tree had a full on superbloom. Anza Borrego had great wildflowers, too. Death Valley had next to nothing. I should have worked at Ocotillo Wells instead.

Death Valley is always great and the rocks are still incredible, but I’m definitely ready to leave.

Joshua Tree National Park
Yucca Blossoms

So this year April is flowers, flowers and more flowers in Joshua Tree. It’s the cactus and agave blooming in Anza Borrego. It’s finally crossing the California Poppy Reserve off my bucket list on my way to Carrizo Plain, which just might be peaking when I get there.

After that, who knows? I could take the coast, or check out the burn areas in the Sierra foothills. For April this year, I’m following the flowers.

Joshua Tree National Park
Sand Blazing Star

 

 

Witnessing the Demise of a Species

Ellwood Butterfly Preserve, Goleta, CA

Twelve years ago I visited the butterfly sanctuary in Pismo Beach, California. I’d never seen anything like it. Every tree in the grove was literally dripping with butterflies, streaming down in long garlands, camouflaged as dead leaves. It took a moment to see them, then. Aha! Wow! There are a kajillion butterflies here!

I went back to Pismo Beach yesterday. I saw maybe a dozen butterflies flitting around. No long streaming garlands. Hardly any butterflies at all.

Pismo Beach Butterfly Sanctuary
How I wish I could mend these broken wings!

I walked out the gateway from the grove, and then I saw a few butterflies. I watched one float down to the highway, fluttering in the breeze like a leaf in autumn. There were a couple of others in the road, three all together.

A car drove by, the wind from its wake bashing and battering the unfortunate creatures. One Monarch valiantly struggled to crawl out of the gutter, its tattered wings damaged beyond all repair.

With tears in my eyes, I coaxed it onto my finger, and carried it over to the nearby bushes. At least let the poor thing die peacefully, on a bed of leaves instead of in the cold, hard, red-painted gutter.

It’s hard to witness the extinction of a species.

Sweet Spring Nature Reserve Los Osos, CA
Eucalyptus flowers and fruit

The Western Monarch Butterfly population is down more than 99% from the 1980s count. This year, in the entire state of California, there are only 28,000. The Xerces Society (the bug people) estimate 30,000 as the tipping point for extinction. Numbers have dropped from 4.5 MILLION in the 1980s to 28,429 as of January 2019.

I first became aware of the Monarch tragedy around Christmas, when I was housesitting in Goleta, CA. Although I was lucky enough to see a few clumps of butterflies hanging from the trees, I learned that their numbers were down dramatically.

Pismo Beach Butterfly Sanctuary
Only one butterfly, where recently there were thousands

It really hit home for me when I was in Monterey in January and visited the sanctuary in Pacific Grove. I had visited that site, also, a dozen years ago on my journey up the California Coast. I must admit I almost took it for granted, there were so many butterflies roosting in the trees then.

I visited this year, and could count them on my fingers.

I admit I’m probably not the best at finding those clumps of butterflies, hanging like ripe fruit from the high branches of tall trees. They camouflage pretty well. Binoculars are helpful. Docents and naturalists who have been studying the insects are much better than I am at spotting them. But when I was in Pacific Grove, one of these experts had a spotting scope out, teaching a group of schoolchildren. He couldn’t find them, either. The ones I did see were flying too high for me to photograph any of them.

Pacific Grove has made a business out of the butterflies, advertising their town as “Butterfly Town USA” on big signs as you enter the village. Gonna have to rethink that ad campaign.

Monarch Butterfly

Walking the beaches of Pacific Grove I found a smooth, polished piece of bone, a vertebra from a fish. Its shape was an exact replica of a butterfly’s form, an apt souvenir from a lovely town where I sadly had the misfortune to witness ecosystems crashing on both land and sea. Death and beauty inextricably entwined.

Finding the last butterflies became a sort of pilgrimage for me. I spent a day searching out the sanctuaries near San Luis Obispo. First I went to Morro Bay State Park. A population lives in the eucalyptus next to the golf course. I spoke with an employee at the park museum. He recounted one time when he was golfing and saw clouds of thousands of butterflies overhead, migrating to these trees, one of those magic moments you remember for a lifetime. No more. I walked the trails and could not spot even one.

Sweet Spring Nature Reserve, Los Osos, CA
Sweet Spring Nature Reserve

A few miles away was the Sweet Springs Preserve in Los Osos. This is an Audubon Important Bird Area and a beautiful little park. There were lots of birds. I watched a KIngfisher flash by, quick as a blink, a half dozen times, but I only saw one butterfly.

Pismo Beach was next. I cried.

Moving on, Oceano Beach was supposed to have a population. This place was considered a good photo op, as the Monarchs winter in the Monterey Cypress, only 15 feet above the ground.. No more.

Ellwood Butterfly Preserve, Goleta, CAThere’s no one cause for this drastic drop in the population. Herbicides are a biggie, though. Probably the biggest factor in the Monarch catastrophe is Round-Up. Seeds genetically engineered to withstand the herbicide allow farmers to lay it abundantly on their fields, killing off the milkweed that the Monarchs depend on for their sustenance. Even if it hasn’t completely killed the milkweed, the poisons concentrate in the insects as they eat it.  Pesticides take on a share, too. They don’t differentiate between an agricultural pest and a Monarch caterpillar.

Habitat destruction and fragmentation is another important factor. We ARE talking about the California coast, after all, and creeping urbanization continues to make it’s way up the coast. While in Guadalupe, in the heart of the Monarch’s wintering range, I witnessed an entire fleet of bulldozers, mowing down eucalyptus trees, building a new subdivision of thousands of homes, basically a new city.

Ellwood Butterfly Reserve, Goleta, CA
Butterflies in Goleta

New studies show that air pollution takes its toll. The milkweed’s nutrients are depleted by the polluted air. The caterpillars feed on the milkweed but don’t get the nutrition they need.

Climate change figures into this perfect storm, too. Many eucalyptus trees have been unable to withstand the effects of California’s ongoing drought. In the Goleta grove, 1260 of the 6,000 trees have died from the drought. That’s about 20%.

 

All the causes for this butterfly extinction are human causes.

Ellwood Mesa Butterfly Grove, Goleta CA
Wintering Monarchs

Listening to the responses of the other visitors was an enlightening insight into our human nature. “It must be a bad year.” “They went to Mexico this year.” “it must be too cold. They don’t like cold.” “Maybe we came too late in the season, they’re already gone.”

Cassandra that I am, I told them, “No. It’s bigger than that. They’re gone. They’re going extinct.” I gave them the numbers. Very few of the people I talked to had even heard of the Monarch’s tragedy.

There’s a disconnect for us between our actions and the consequences. We don’t want to take responsibility. I’m as guilty as anyone else. Sometimes I would buy organic, but I often let my budget dictate my choices. After witnessing the results of my actions, I will be buying organic from now on.

Ellwood Butterfly Preserve, Goleta, CAMonarch butterflies are fragile. They really need our help. The Xerces Society has a plan to try to save the Monarchs. It’s time to take responsibility for the consequences of our actions. We all need to do our share. Eat organic.  If you live anywhere in the contiguous United States, where Monarchs breed and lay their eggs, plant milkweed. Boycott RoundUp. Don’t use pesticides. Build a bat box instead. Hopefully it’s not too late. Let’s try to save the Monarchs if we can.